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Our Amazing Asia Adventures Lead Us to the Majesty of Angkor and a French Colonial Oasis in the Heart of Siem Reap

Wednesday, March 14th, 2018

A Magnificent Sunrise at Angkor Wat is absolutely worth the 4 a.m. wake-up call. Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, Cambodia is the largest religious monument in the world. It is stunning for its grand scale and its incredible detail.

Story by Mel Gee Henderson

With Select Images captured by our Cambodian native Guide Extraordinaire, Ben Bond

What is Wat and What does it all mean?

Angkor Wat – built by Suryavarman II (r 1112–52) – is the earthly representation of Mt Meru, the Mt Olympus of the Hindu faith and the abode of ancient gods. The Cambodian god-kings of old each strove to better their ancestors’ structures in size, scale and symmetry, culminating in what is believed to be the world’s largest religious building.

The sandstone blocks from which Angkor Wat was built were quarried from the holy mountain of Phnom Kulen, more than 50km away, and floated down the Siem Reap River on rafts. The logistics of such an operation are difficult to comprehend, consuming the labor of thousands.

According to inscriptions, the construction of Angkor Wat involved 300,000 workers and 6000 elephants, yet it was still not fully completed. You have to see it to believe!

The West Wall of the outer enclosure of Angkor Wat.

The temple is the heart and soul of Cambodia, whose landscapes showcase an empire of temples, and a source of fierce national pride.

Today’s Cambodia is the successor state to the mighty Khmer empire, which, during the Angkorian period, ruled much of what is now Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The remains of this empire can be seen at the fabled temples of Angkor, monuments unrivalled in scale and grandeur in Southeast Asia. The traveller’s first glimpse of Angkor Wat is matched by only a few select spots on earth, such as Machu Picchu or Petra.

Pools of water reflect the harmony and majesty of Angkor Wat’s structures, while its five soaring towers resemble the lush forms of the green trees surrounding them. The most recognizable landmark at the Unesco World Heritage site of Angkor, the temple is regarded by many as the pinnacle of the brilliant, creative culture that flourished in the early medieval reign of the Khmer empire.

It is believed Cambodia was once a major world power. A 2015 survey of the site has confirmed that colossal cities once lay near Angkor, and that Cambodia could well have been the largest empire on Earth in the 12th century.

From the ninth century, under the Khmer dynasty, Cambodia built up an empire that covered swaths of what was once known as Indochina [Laos, Thailand, Vietnam]. When the Khmer king Suryavarman II built the Angkor Wat temples in the 1100s, the empire was at the peak of its power. Angkor Wat, meaning “capital temple,” was sacred to the Hindu god Vishnu, and the complex’s architecture was greatly influenced by Indian style. In a sign of the region’s shifting religious loyalties, it was later adapted for Buddhist worship.

In the 1400s, the empire declined. The city was partly abandoned and rapidly swallowed by vegetation. Hundreds of years later, its mystery gave rise to outlandish myths among the first Europeans who saw it: Spanish missionaries attributed it to leaders like Alexander the Great, while others theorized it had been built by Jews who had passed through the region before settling in China.

SO MUCH TO LEARN…SO LITTLE TIME.

If you go to Angkor Wat, request a guide who knows the Temples like the back of his hand! Enter Cambodian Ben Bond.

What happens when you learn that your scholarly guide is also an outstanding photographer who knows exactly where the best photo ops are at all the Temples in Siem Reap? You go back to your hotel and revise your wardrobe so it’s more camera-friendly…one that merited his remarkable photography skills.

Morning Tour…wonderful, benevolent, engaging new friends…and our super early sunrise wardrobe.

Upon discovering what a brilliant and clever photographer our guide is, we treated him to a beautiful lunch, and thereafter, revised our wardrobe…after all, we wanted it befitting the iconic world’s wonder–that is Angkor Wat! There is an elegance to these ancient monuments.

As we explored the Temples of Angkor, our guide captured one memorable moment after another.

Our photographer wasn’t the only one reminding us to SMILE!

A goodbye kiss seems in order too.

If ancient trees could speak, what stories they would tell…

Angkor may be the scene of one of the greatest vanishing acts of all time. The Khmer kingdom lasted from the ninth to the 15th centuries, and at its height dominated a wide swath of Southeast Asia, from Myanmar (Burma) in the west to Vietnam in the east. As many as 750,000 people lived in Angkor, its capital, which sprawled across an area the size of New York City’s five boroughs, making it the most extensive urban complex of the preindustrial world. By the late 16th century, when Portuguese missionaries came upon the lotus-shaped towers of Angkor Wat—the most elaborate of the city’s temples and the world’s largest religious monument—the once resplendent capital of the empire, scholars claim was in its death throes.

Scholars have come up with a long list of suspected causes, including rapacious invaders, a religious change of heart, and a shift to maritime trade that condemned an inland city. It’s mostly guesswork: Roughly 1,300 inscriptions survive on temple doorjambs and freestanding stelae, but the people of Angkor left not a single word explaining their kingdom’s collapse.

Recent excavations, not of the temples but of the infrastructure that made the vast city possible, are converging on a new answer. Angkor, it appears, was doomed by the very ingenuity that transformed a collection of minor fiefdoms into an empire. The civilization learned how to tame Southeast Asia’s seasonal deluges, then faded as its control of water, the most vital of resources, slipped away.

As they say, “When in Rome”…well, When in Siem Reap, and it just happens to be the second day of the city’s Water Festival and Moon Festival celebrations [Nov. 2, 3], you do what any enthusiastic visitor to the city does: You join the brilliant parade and dance to the beat of a brand new drum! [Photocred: our amazing guide, Ben Bond]

Our Home Away from Home: An Oasis in the Heart of Siem Reap

Just 10 minutes away from the famed monuments, French colonial elegance sits harmoniously amidst the cool manicured gardens of Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort.

And, after walking and climbing throughout the temple grounds, a dream Spa was exactly what we yearned.

If Golf is your cup of Tee [pun intended], the Sofitel Golf course will surely have you seeing green…emerald green reminiscent of the golf courses in Ireland!

The signature Sofitel touch is evident throughout this wonderful true respite from the hustle and bustle of this remarkable Cambodian treasure–the Temples of Siem Reap–that draws millions of visitors each year from every corner of the world.

Dining al fresco is such a terrific way to embrace that you are in fact residing in an incredibly exotic tropical region of the world!

We want to express our sincere gratitude to the entire Sofitel staff for the Royal treatment from the moment we were picked up at the Siem Reap airport, to the seamless check-in experience, to the daily “princess treatment” that gave us so much motivation to jump out of bed for we knew another amazing breakfast was in store to help fuel and energize our Cambodian exploration.

Next stop…Our #amazingasiaadventures continue as we embark on the AmaDara Mekong River Cruise!

We hope you’ll stay tuned…

Here’s to #blissful #neverending #escapes!

Remember, no matter where you go, be the kindest person you know! I promise, the world will open up to you,

Mel aka the ESCAPESEEKER

Interested in joining my future adventures? I welcome your emails, recommendations, comments, etc. escapeseeker@gmail.com

Tags: Adventure Travel, AmaWaterways AmaDara, Amazing Asia, Angkor Wat, Ben Bond, Elegant Travel Wardrobe, ESCAPESEEKER Travel Series, Impeccable Service, Luxury Escapes, LUXURY TRAVEL, Maynhia Stott, Mel Gee Henderson, Mind-Expanding Travel, Scholarly Guides, Siem Reap Temples, Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort, The Mekong River Cruise, Travel Journalist, Travel Photography, What is Wat
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Mekong River Voyage of Discovery: Connecting Past and Present

Tuesday, January 23rd, 2018

THE MEKONG RIVER…The artery that led us on our hearts’ life-long mission…to trace where our fathers once walked in time of war…we now walk in time of peace.

“In all of us there is a hunger, marrow-deep, to know our heritage- to know who we are and where we have come from. Without this enriching knowledge, there is a hollow yearning. No matter what our attainments in life, there is still a vacuum, an emptiness, and the most disquieting loneliness. ” ~ Alex Haley, author of Roots, whom I had the privilege and honor of working with in the early 90’s impressed upon me the importance of knowing who we are, by researching the lives of those who bravely paved the path before us.

THIS IS OUR STORY.

By Mel Gee Henderson

with Maynhia Yang Stott

Photography by ESCAPESEEKER,

unless otherwise indicated

Prologue: Part 1

“Your Dad, Sgt. Major Peppy saved my life!” This was the remarkable sentiments expressed by soldier upon soldier as they shook my hand during my father’s packed Memorial Service. For you see, my father, a U.S. Marine whose military career spanned more than three decades, volunteered for deployment during the Vietnam conflict, not once, twice, or three times, but five! It only seems natural then that he would have had occasions to save equally as many lives.

Back home, during my father’s absence, my mother served as CEO of our home. My elder brother was in his prime (sometimes rather wild) teen years; while I was still in the thick of my formative elementary school phase. My mother worked full time in order to stay sane and keep her mind off the Vietnam War fueled further by nightly news reports of the conflict only escalating. We, along with other military families in our Oceanside, California neighborhood learned to cope with our soldiers’ absence. But underneath the calm exterior, even as a child, I knew full well that everyone dreaded the mere sight of the Chaplain’s black sedan slowly cruising our streets, looking for the designated address. It only meant one thing: another life had been lost to the Vietnam War.

My Mission

Fast forward, 42 years after the Fall of Saigon, I am now granted the opportunity to walk the very same Asian soil my father walked. The stark difference: He walked as a soldier through enemy-thick jungles in sweltering heat, and marched with boots laced with leeches across verdant rice [mine] fields in war-ravaged Vietnam; I, however, now walk in time of peace. I see a country that bears only a small resemblance to the images that lit up our TV sets, accompanied with disturbing, grueling reports about a war that few understood. I feel compelled to learn all that I can about this Southeast Asia region that occupied a major chunk of my father’s life, and impacted our entire family…a familiar story that was repeated in homes across America’s vast landscape.

Part 2: Enter… Maynhia Yang Stott

Maynhia with ESCAPESEEKER during our “Astonishing Australia” film shoot

How It All Began

In mid-October of 2017, I enjoyed a Chinese lunch with one of our most ardent ESCAPESEEKER Travel Series supporters who had accompanied our film crew on an epic, month-long Australia filming assignment in August of 2017. Her name: Maynhia Yang Stott, a Hmong Laotian-French-American. She began to recall the story of how her family narrowly escaped from Communist-ruled Laos after the Fall of Saigon. As she spoke, I realized for the first time, the depth of how far this young entrepreneurial woman had come from that singular moment that her 2-year old self had literally been plucked from the grip of an extremely difficult and dangerous existence. She looked me right in the eyes, and pointedly expressed, “Mel, I want to go back to Laos, and learn more about my family’s past, and more importantly, I want to find a way to give back and help the Laotian people. I want to improve the lives of impoverished children, who like me, need a chance for a better life. Will you help me? Remember, I was only 2 years old when I left. It is so foreign to me, and I know little about how to navigate that part of the world.”After giving it a great deal of thought, I suggested to her, “If we’re going to go back and learn more about your family’s heritage, then we must also explore the other countries that have impacted Laos history–the countries that make up Indochina: Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. Throughout its history, the horror of wars that impacted one, impacted all three. And, the best mode of travel since we are both unfamiliar with this part of Asia, I think we should consider joining the AmaWaterways‘ River vessel, the AmaDara, designed specifically to navigate the Mekong River and its complex arteries which embarks from a tiny port–a 5 hour drive from Siem Reap, Cambodia, and winds through the Mekong River until it reaches its final destination: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.”

Maynhia agreed. But before we join the AmaDara River Cruise Voyage, we shall first travel to the land of her roots, Laos, officially known as Lao People’s Democratic Republic.

The AmaDara, our chosen vessel for exploring the Mekong River and its tributaries.

Thus, the stage is now set for two friends to accomplish two distinct missions. Yet, both reasons for their journey are actually similarly tied; we both seek to understand our father’s past–a past that has played such an integral part in shaping our most formative years.

To understand Maynhia’s motivations to return to Laos, you must first gain a glimpse into her family’s vivid past.

Laos, a foreign name and an even more foreign land for a little girl who escaped the country as a two-year old toddler.

In her own words…

My mother describes vividly how our family left Laos when the Americans pulled out of the Vietnam War.

Xiang Khouang Deputy Governor Youa Pao Yang

Because my Father, Xiang Khouang Deputy Governor Youa Pao Yang, was a high Hmong official, and the first recognized Hmong Lao government official (along with General Vang Pao), who fought along side the Americans, his life was in real danger. In May 1975 the Americans sent choppers to evacuate the Hmong officials from Long Tieng. Choppers carried out air lift missions to Long Tieng for three days. Long Tieng was a Laotian military base located in Xiangkhouang Province.

During the Laotian Civil War, it served as a town and airbase operated by the Central Intelligence Agency of the United States. At that time my family lived in Ban Naso, a little village where we took refuge for four years after the capital seat of Xiangkhouang, Satong fell under the communist regime.

I was born in Ban Naso. We arrived in Long Tieng the second day after an arduous five hours drive. For two days my family tried to board with no success; the airport was crowded with people. When the helicopters arrived, they would rush and scramble to get on. The soldiers in charge of helping us couldn’t control the crowd. My mom was with child. She was holding a suitcase and carrying me on her back with a nyaaj, a traditional baby cloth carrier. I had just turned two years old. My dad was holding my older brothers’ hands. Kou was six, and Yi was four. My sister Bao who was eight was old enough to walk by herself. My mom says this time was the scariest time of her life. She wasn’t scared of the enemy as much as she was of the crowd of people. They were so ruthless. It seemed that no one cared about anyone. Prior to the helicopters coming, the Americans told the people that they will only send helicopters to evacuate the officials and that the people were safe from the Viet communist since the communist will only punish or kill the officials.

The first day, the people let the officials board but like anywhere in times of war, fears and doubt creep into the peole’s mind and chaos acrrues. The second day, when we arrived the airport was crowded with people fighting to get on board the choppers. No one listened to the Americans anymore. It was survival of the fittest.

Whenever I doubt if I possess the courage and strength to undertake a new challenge, even a foreign venture, I think of my Mother and the tremendous strength and resolve she demonstrated to do what was necessary to save our family and begin a new life, I question it no more.
Our family overcame huge financial, cultural, language obstacles to thrive in France, and ultimately settling in America as citizens. We’ve come so far since that terrifying river crossing.
Today, my mother still stands at the head of our family, reminding us that there’s nothing we cannot conquer.
Where do I get my ability to easily adapt to any situation? Her name is By Ly Yang, and she is my Mother.

After two days of trying to board to no avail, my mom suggested that my dad leave for Thailand by himself and she and the children will stay behind with my grand mother since his life was in imminent danger and ours was not. My dad refused to let us stay, and said he will find a way. We hired a taxi to drive us to Vientiane– an 8-hours drive through a small dirt road. It was just our little family. When we left Naso my dad told his body guards to go home and take their family to safety. Once in Vientiane, my dad’s 3-5 body guards who were already there at our house, refused to let him go out since the city was already occupied by the communist. After three days they finally found a boat from a Thai man who agreed to help us. The body guards snucked us out of the city to the river bank and we finally crossed the Mekong river. They placed us in a boat and watched us cross, hidden from the river bank. When we reached the other side which was the city of Nong Khai, they returned to our house and gathered their families to make the same crossing we had just made. All of them made it safely across.

Fast forward–they now reside in the United States, or in France. Because my dad worked with the French government most of his life he chose to emigrate to France. We lived there for 14 years. This is my Dad in his civilian attire, thriving in his newfound, conflict-free, adopted country.

After my father’s passing we moved to the United States to be reunited with my mom’s family. I was born in April of 1973. If you ask my mom, she will say that I was born when “we were planting.” That’s how the Hmong remember when their children were born. One would say “you were born just during the rice harvest because I remember that I couldn’t help since I was with child.” Another one would say, “you were born the year our dad passed away, at the beginning of the planting season. That year we didn’t farm much because we didn’t have a dad to help us anymore. You uncles were young so we didn’t have any men muscle to help us till the land. Farming was very small from then on, until your uncles were big enough to clear trees for a new farm land.”

As you can see everything was based on the agriculture calendar. It is bitter sweet to finally be in Laos. It’s a beautiful country. I love it already. I can imagine living here myself surrounded by the emerald forests, the majestic mountains, the deep valleys, and narrow roads; the hillside farmlands caressing the mighty Mekong River. The sad part is that we’re not able to visit the actual places where our family lived. They say the road to Sathon is too dangerous, and that we are likely to get mugged. They say that Long Tieng is now a closed base. And, Ban Naso, where I was born, is now under an artificial lake. I hope to come back soon with my family. Perhaps I can gather three generations to return to Laos–to recall, to learn, and to pass on our family’s legacy. We will always be grateful for the sacrifices of our parents, for their courage in leaving their homeland, and the resilience to start over in a total foreign country with a vastly different culture. Most importantly, our parents stressed the importance of making a success of our lives so that someday, should we return to Laos, we can give back. This is the reason I have journeyed to Laos. It is my own personal journey of discovery, to learn more about who I am. And, equally important, it’s time for me to find a way to give back. ~ Maynhia Yang Stott

Lovely Laos…Gives whole new meaning to “A River Runs Through It.”

First Sighting of the Mekong River: We fly to Laos’ Paksi Airport, and travel by car to Champasak. Our Laos base of exploration–The River Resort, on the emerald banks of the Mekong River, Champasak Province.

The bamboo-lined entrance to The River Resort revealed an organized, naturally sculpted landscape captured in the image below, reflective of the fertile soil, and abundant flora along Mekong River’s edge.

 [Photo Credit: The River Resort]

The minute we stepped into our clean, bright, simple, yet well-appointed villas, it’s clear that the architects and landscape artists of The River Resort put a great deal of thought behind its Southeast Asia design.

After our long, multi-transpacific asiatic flights, we easily sunk into a deep slumber, serenaded by the sounds of the Mekong River’s rippling currents.

At dawn, I awoke to this glorious sight! The tiny silhouette of a Laotian fisherman in his boat already hard at work before sunrise.

Fully energized after our hearty River Resort buffet breakfast, we spent the early morning learning more about The River Resort and making new friends with several of the local guests. What an eye opener. We learned that many of the guests live in nearby Paksi, and travel to The River Resort for weekend get-a-ways because “it’s beautiful and they serve the best food in all of Champasak!” By day’s end, after exploring and photographing the resort, and even receiving the most jet lag-curing massage from the Resort’s Spa therapist, I eagerly created the following collage from the images I captured, accompanied by the following entry from my journal:

Our Sunday was spent exploring our Laos #homeawayfromhome, The River Resort, savoring the Chef’s unique culinary offerings, and making brand new friends, like 4-year old, Lin [pictured above in my Sunday collage] who can speak Lao, English and Chinese! Her beautiful Mama, Kitar also speaks beautiful English. Kitar says she learned to speak via the internet! How brilliant is that?#splendidsundaysentiments…After just two days, this is what we know: The beautiful Laotians we have met are warm, friendly, and oh so kind-hearted.

It’s 1:08 a.m. on Monday morning and I’m too excited to sleep! I can’t wait for the sunrise so our adventures can continue. We’re heading towards the mountains to experience a plethora of waterfalls, and you know how I am when it comes to water, water, water! Have a beautiful week everyone, and remember, no matter where you go, be the kindest person you know. Honestly, the world is full of engaging friends, just waiting to be met. So…SMILE…and I bet you’ll make a new friend or two this week! May we all strive to make the world a more loving place by learning to understand one another, and savoring cultures different from our own. You know what you’ll discover once you get to know one another? Beyond the differing language and religious faiths, the national attire, and really spicy foods, we’re really not that different after all. We all need to know that our lives matter…and we’re all striving to create meaningful, joyful lives infused with love by family and friends. Goodnight for now, from#lovelylaos and The River Resort

We awaken to such a flawless view of the mesmerizing Mekong River from our suite at The River Resort rested and ready yet again for another Champasak Province adventure. And, the best part, Maynhia and I were able to share our adventures with our brand new friend whom we only met during our lunch at the Resort! She’s a Filipina (via Cyprus and Pakse, Laos that is), and we instantly became friends. It is as if we’ve known her forever. Her husband welcomed us to their beautiful home upon our return, and treated us to the most fabulous Italian dinner! Indeed, my ESCAPESEEKER theory rings true once again: #theworldisfullofengagingfriendsjustwaitingtobemet

To understand the present, you must first study the past…

Wat Phu (meaning ‘mountain temple’), is situated on a hillside and offers stunning views over the surrounding land and Mekong River. Those who appreciate art and history will be amazed by the magnificent workmanship in this ruined Khmer temple complex in the form of temple pillars, barays, lintels, pediments, terrace, courtyard, walls, doorways, sanctuary, shrine, library and palaces. There is also a natural spring that is believed by locals to emit holy water. Older than the great temple complex at Angkor Wat in Cambodia, Wat Phu was named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2002.

Wat Phu (Vat Phou) is opened year round. It is located in Pakse, the main city of Champasack Province in southwestern Laos. Visitors can travel to Wat Phu from Pakse via land or by boat along the Mekong River.

This “Tuk Tuk” was our preferred land transportation for our temple visits. By the way, I didn’t really drive it. Best to hire a local driver who really knows his way around. Your task will be merely to wave to all the friendly locals because it will quickly become apparent that your driver knows everyone in town!

If you really want to get to know a place, get to know the locals.
Respectfully see, feel, hear, taste, embrace their country, and their culture through their eyes!
I promise, they will welcome you with open arms.

Our stay went by all too fast, and we knew we were going to have a really tough time saying goodbye to our new Lao friends, not to mention our delicious feast prepared by their French Chef, who thoroughly enjoyed conversing with Maynhia in her perfect French. Our private sunset cruise on the Mekong River with The River Resort Champasak multi-tasking, multi-skilled team was exceptional. Honestly, their amazing native staff know the Mekong like the back of their hands, having grown up along the River. And, they seem to be able to do it all, wherever their skills are needed, and do so with a SMILE! Their pride in being part of “The River Resort family” is reflected in everything they do, and especially in how they extend the VIP treatment to all the guest! We sure picked the perfect place for Maynhia to get a beautiful re-introduction into the land of her native roots: LOVELY LAOS already has Maynhia and this ESCAPESEEKER longing to return!

#amazingasia Mekong River Voyage of Discovery… to be continued…Next Stop, The Splendor of Siem Reap!

Angkor Wat, Cambodia at sunrise is absolutely worth the 4 a.m. wake-up call. Thanks to our guide extraordinaire, Ben Bond, we were able to document our most amazing visit to the largest and oldest religious monument in the world, which has become a must-see destination in Asia. Now, the temple is part of Angkor World Heritage Site and is considered one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The name– Angkor Wat means “Temple City” in Khmer. Ben advised us exactly where to stand to capture the very best images, and provided one mind-expanding, scholarly narration about each Temple we visited. It is easy to see he is absolutely passionate about his work, and so very proud for the opportunity to share his country’s most famous treasures. Please stay tuned tomorrow when ESCAPESEEKER brings you Part 3: Cambodia…There’s so much more than meets the eye!

We can’t wait to show you where we stayed during our Siem Reap exploration. Talk about an absolutely luxurious “oasis” right smack in the heart of Siem Reap splendor. Just a short 10 minutes away from the famous ancient temples, we found French colonial elegance thriving amidst the manicured gardens of Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort!

Oh, less I forget, we will also introduce you to a boatload of AmaWaterways’ “AmaZing” guests who share our insatiable wanderlust, many of whom we now count amongst our roster of global, brilliant friends. My ESCAPESEEKERisms (things I personally believe to be true) clearly applies here: If you wish to meet amazing friends, engage in amazing things. Yes, like traveling and discovering the sheer majesty of our wondrous world!

“Amazing Journeys” is an international travel program designed for Jewish singles and Jewish adult travelers of all ages. President and founder Malori Asman, brings with her over 30 years of travel industry experience. Her travel experience speaks for itself—she has sailed on more than 100 cruises and has traveled to over 110 countries on seven continents! No wonder we instantly felt like soulmates. The seasoned team of
Amazing Journeys plan, implement and personally escort 10-12 trips a year for Jewish singles around the world.
We had the good fortune of being on the same AmaDara Mekong River Cruise as Amazing Journeys, and well, it was exactly that: AMAZING!

[Photo Credit: Amazing Journeys]

Tags: Adventure, Adventure Travel, AmaDara, AmaWaterways, Amazing Journeys, Angkor Wat, Ben Bond, Cambodia, Champasak Province, Enriching Travel Experiences, ESCAPESEEKER, ESCAPESEEKER Travel Series, Jewish Singles Travel Groups, Journalist, Laos, Luxury Escapes, Maynhia Stott, Mekong River Cruise, Mel Gee Henderson, Military Families, Mountain Temple, Paksi, PostWarVietnam, Sgt. Major A.S. Peapealalo, Siem Reap, Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort, The River Resort, Tuk Tuk, U.S. Marine, Vat Phou, Vietnam, Vietnam War, War Refugees, Wat Phu
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ESCAPESEEKER Team Discovers the Vast Seemingly Endless Richness of Australia

Tuesday, June 20th, 2017

Indian Pacific panorama captured by passenger, Ian Quatermass

BY TRAIN, BY PLANE, BY BOATS, OR ANYTHING THAT FLOATS; ON FOOT, ON WHEELS, AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN, MY ESCAPESEEKER ADVANCE RESEARCH TEAM ENTHUSIASTICALLY SAID ‘YES’ TO EVERY EPIC ADVENTURE!

My indefatigable “Astonishing Australia” Advance Research Team is comprised of yours truly, ESCAPESEEKER series scriptwriter/photojournalist/Executive Producer; Roy A. Henderson, Executive Producer/Pilot/Aerial Photographer; Jim Jones, Stills Photographer and Program Advisory Team Member; Peg Whisler Jones, iPhone photog specialist/emphasis-social media [Team, Thank you for making every assignment a joyful experience.]

Qantas, Australia's flagship airline--you'll feel that signature Aussie hospitality the minute you board.

Qantas, Australia’s flagship airline–you’ll feel that undeniable Aussie hospitality the minute you board.

We embarked on our Sailaway Sunset Sail at Port Douglas, Queensland, and the goosebumps begin the minute you realize, I'm headed to the Great Barrier Reef!

We embarked on our Sailaway Sunset Sail at Port Douglas, Queensland, and the goosebumps begin the minute you realize, I’m headed to the iconic Great Barrier Reef (on the World Heritage List).

We said goodbye to the big city life and stepped back in time when riverboat trade only happened along the Murray River when this beautiful ‘Princess’ moved between small town ports.

Watching the sun rise slowly peek through the mountain tops as we sailed high above the fertile Mareeba Valley with Hot Air Balloon Cairns made the rather painful 3:55 a.m. pick up time absolutely worth it!

They should rename the “Raging Thunder Adventures” “Raging Laughter Adventures” because that’s exactly what our footage from our white water rafting trip on the Barron River sounded like! I would do it again in a heartbeat

Keeping Rottness Island Green requires you explore with a darling electric car, or on foot, or our favorite form--a bicycle!

Keeping Rottness Island Green requires we explore with a darling electric car, or on foot, or our favorite form–a bicycle!

How can we not accept the challenge to climb the iconic landmark, Sydney Harbor Bridge? If you’re looking for a true HIGH–this is an absolute must do! #bestviewofyourlife

When your hear “Australia” you immediately think, “Kangaroo” right? So, of course we decide to begin our epic Advance Research assignment on Australia’s southern KANGAROO ISLAND with Nikki Redman, the island’s legendary native guide! The minute we met her, we knew we were in for a brilliant experience!

Los Angeles, California ~ Ok, I have a confession. After being in Australia for nearly a month, I’m definitely showing signs of Aussie withdrawal symptoms. No more morning greeting with “How you goin’?”

No daily infusion of non-stop wit from our many, many, coast to coast, Australian guides who make you beg to ask, “How in the world did you all get to be so much fun?” Their general reply, “We’ve just learned not to take ourselves too seriously!” But seriously, what I’m about to recap for you in the next five minutes of some interesting travel reading (I hope)–is one of the most enjoyable, enriching, and exciting ESCAPESEEKER assignments we have ever undertaken. So let me not waste any more of your precious seconds, and begin to articulate WHY AUSTRALIA IS ABSOLUTELY WORTH GOING THE DISTANCE (especially for North Americans).

First stop: Hello Kangaroo Island

After being transported by the SeaLink coach from Adelaide to Cape Jervis through the Fleurieu Peninsula, about 1.30 hours scenic drive, we arrived at the Ferry Terminal, proceeded to check-in, and shortly thereafter boarded the SeaLink Ferry for the 45-minute crossing to Kangaroo Island. Upon arrival we were met by Kangaroo Island native, and seasoned guide, Nikki Redman, holding up our beautiful frequent sight–the ESCAPESEEKER welcome sign!

After the usual intros, we set off on our first day of Kangaroo Island Odysseys‘ exploration on board a super roomie, luxurious Mercedes 4-wheel drive vehicle, which we would soon discover Nikki handled with total ease as she multi-tasked: talking in her melodic Aussie accent as she briefed us on everything we ever wanted to know about Kangaroo Island–including all those interesting facts only local insiders know; driving confidently no matter the road conditions as some of the roads are unsealed, and extra care must be taken; and Nikki has this amazing ability to spot wildlife, no matter where they’re hiding–and sometimes, this is while she’s navigating enthusiastically behind the wheel!

Kangaroo Island, Australia’s third-largest island, is 155 km (96 miles long and 55 km (34 miles wide. Located 16 km (10 miles) off the Fleurie Peninsula, the island was the site of South Australia’s first official colonial settlement, established at Reeves Point in 1836. However, the settlement was short-lived, and within just four years had been virtually abandoned. The island was then settled during the remainder of the 19th century as communications improved with the new mainland settlements.

Travel Alert: There is no public transport on Kangaroo Island

Visitors must travel on a tour or by car. If you really prefer to focus on having the best wildlife sightings, I highly recommend going the tour route, and if you can, do as my team and I did, and booking a private tour guide. One outstanding perk with your private tour guide–Nikki prepared some amazing meals for us during our time with her, so delicious we would almost forget that we are actually on a specific work assignment to find the interesting facts, experiences that will fill a future 27-minute episode for our special transcontinental coverage of ESCAPESEEKER: Astonishing Australia.

I can tell you this in advance–Kangaroo Island doesn’t lack program content. I can’t share everything we learned, or else you would not have any further reasons to watch the Kangaroo Island episode starring our brilliant, exceptionally fun, and witty guide, Nikki Redman. But here’s a little teaser you might not already know: Are you aware that Kangaroo Island is home to well over a million Tammar wallabies? Or that female wallabies actually put their pregnancies on hold if conditions aren’t suitable for the baby joey to be born?

Our first wildlife sighting shortly after arriving at Kangaroo Island: #wondrouswallaby (I couldn't resist the hashtag and alliteration) The name "wallaby" comes from Dharug 'walabi' or 'waliba'. Young wallabies are known as "joeys", like many other marsupials. Adult male wallabies are referred to as bucks, boomers, or jacks. An adult female wallaby is known as a doe, flyer, or jill. A group of wallabies is called a court, mob, or troupe. [Moment captured by ESCAPESEEKER photog, Jim Jones]

Our first wildlife sighting shortly after arriving at Kangaroo Island: #wondrouswallaby (I just couldn’t resist the hashtag and alliteration) The name “wallaby” comes from Dharug ‘walabi’ or ‘waliba’. Young wallabies are known as “joeys”, like many other marsupials. Adult male wallabies are referred to as bucks, boomers, or jacks. An adult female wallaby is known as a doe, flyer, or jill. A group of wallabies is called a court, mob, or troupe. [Photocred: Jim Jones]

Did you also know that the sea lions on Kangaroo Island make the 120 kilometre return journey to the continental shelf looking for food every six days, themselves risking becoming food for hungry Great White Sharks and Orcas?

Our guide knew so much about Kangaroo Island’s flora and fauna that when Nikki described them in great detail, it was already like watching a Nature segment on PBS! The more we discovered about Kangaroo Island’s unique wildlife, and indigenous plants, as well as its stunning geography, also carved out by the forces of Nature–wind, rain, and sea–the more inspired we are to capture the endless beauty of this incredibly pristine, revered island. It is Australia’s own version of the Galapagos in all its wondrous glory. From Koalas napping peacefully on their native tree branch, to silhouettes of kangaroos grazing across the meadow at sunset, to pristine beaches that caress a vast panorama of the deep blue Southern Ocean, our multi-Emmy-award winning cinematographer, Evan Zissimopulos is surely going to think he died and went to heaven!

Kangaroo Island has always fascinated me ever since my eldest daughter, Joanna Gee who at 15 was awarded “Science Student of the Year” at her High School and subsequently selected to be part of the People to People International Student Travel Program. Joanna chose to travel to Kangaroo Island to study Marine Biology. Joanna even made sure she was scuba-certified by her departure date, even if it meant passing her open dives in the frigid winter waters of Flaming Gorge in Utah! Well, fast forward, today Joanna is a Financial Analyst for a major tech company, but to this day, she has never forgotten her amazing time at Kangaroo Island. “Mom, t’s a haven for wildlife. The air is fresher, the skies are bluer, and the Aussies are just the nicest people on earth.” On that note, how can I not include Kangaroo Island on our epic #astonishingaustralia special series? Consider it done, Joanna! Thank you for inspiring me all those years ago. What took me so long?

Second Stop: Alluring Adelaide: Artistry by Design

Once our Kangaroo Island Odysseys adventure was completed, we returned to the mainland via SeaLink Ferry, and once again picked up by SeaLink coach and guest by guest returned to our respective Adelaide hotel.

Our choice–the redesigned, and meticulously preserved, luxurious 5-star Mayfair Hotel.

Wait until you sink your tired body into their luxuriously famous king size bed after a long day of exploration. We’ve never felt anything like it, and we understand the beds are manufactured right in Adelaide. Honestly, I slept like a baby!

Adelaide’s abuzz about The Hennessy, Mayfair Hotel’s hottest Rooftop Bar.

Why visit Adelaide?

Adelaide, the state capital of the Southeast region is rich with pine forests; world-class wineries in its surrounding hills that are dotted with fertile vineyards from the Barossa Valley to McLaren Vale; to the east, the great Murray River meanders from the Victoria border down to the Southern Ocean (more on that later), and the topping on the cake for beach lovers like me–Adelaide boasts a spectacular coastline including the popular white sandy beaches of Gulf St. Vincent.

Did you know no convicts were transported here?

Home to Aborigines for more than 10,000 years, the region was settled by Europeans in 1836 when Governor John Hindmarsh proclaimed the area a British colony. William Light, the Surveyor General, chose the site of the city of Adelaide. The settlement was based on a theory of free colonization funded solely by land sales, and no convicts were transported here. Adelaide was carefully planned by Colonel Light with its ordered grid pattern, anchored by pretty squares and gardens, the city is surrounded by luscious green parkland.

Beyond the well-designed public parklands, one of the vivid character traits Adelaide possesses which visitors quickly note upon arrival is the abundance of architectural wonders. The city is like a blank canvas for modern architects, and what they’ve designed and engineered is pretty amazing! Here are just a few total stand-outs: [L to R] UoA Adelaide Medical & Nursing School; South Australian Health and Medical Institute, (SAHMI, also nicknamed “The Grater”) [Bottom L] Rundle Mall

The State Capital, Adelaide is a brilliant, living Architectural Museum!

The city reflects the residents forward thinking attitude, as well as their youthful approach to maintaining a high quality of life–and that means living well, eating healthy, staying fit, and taking the time to smell the roses. And, there’s no better place to get a whiff of the floral varieties than at the spectacular glasshouse at Adelaide Botanic Gardens.

Nothing fuels our appetites than a full day of exploration. We love knowing our Mayfair Hotel boasts one of Adelaide’s most highly-regarded culinary artist–Chef Bethany Finn at The Mayflower Restaurant and Bar.

A fun insider info–Chef Bethany nurtures her very own Beehives on the Rooftop of the Mayfair Hotel, which produces the most exquisite honey I’ve ever tasted. Perhaps it’s because these bees reside in luxury? Chef Bethany finds numerous tasty ways to brilliantly weave her freshly harvested, purest honey into both the Bar’s signature drinks, and the mouth-watering recipes she prepares at the Mayflower Restaurant! Livin’ is definitely sweeter at the Mayfair. And, less you forget, when the day is over we also get to sink ourselves into one of the Mayfair‘s heavenly beds! #tia: #ThisIsAustralia. Hospitality Extraordinaire!

Goodnight. Please stay tuned for more amazing adventure updates as we report on:

> Southern Australia’s food and wine connoisseur’s mecca–the fertile hillsides, vineyard-dotted, Barossa Valley–an easy hour’s drive from Adelaide;

> the many things we learned from our pleasantly soothing River Cruise on board the p/s Murray Princess.

> our unforgettable, adventure-filled week in Queensland at Thala Beach Nature Reserve and the Great Barrier Reef, one of Australia’s greatest treasure;

> our epic Great Southern Rail transcontinental journey on the Indian Pacific “Platinum Service” across the Great Outback, from Sydney to Perth;

> our wildly pristine surprise at Rottnest Island;

> and, Perth Perfect is exactly that–Perfect! Take a sunset cruise on board Captain Cook Cruises, and you’ll understand what I mean.

> And, less I forget, our beautiful stay in the most envied postcard-perfect Harbour capital in the world–Splendid Sydney!

If you’re starting to think Australia just might have it all, may I simply say you could well be on the right track indeed. This may also explain the very reason visitors have been known to arrive in Australia and never leave!

In the interim, here’s to Blissful, Endless Escapes…and, remember, no matter where you go, be the kindest person you know.

With love,

Mel, THE ESCAPESEEKER

Tags: Adelaide, Adventure, Adventure Travel, Astonishing Australia, Australia, Australian continent, Bees, Cairns, Chef Bethany Finn, Enriching Travel Experiences, ESCAPESEEKER, ESCAPESEEKER Travel Series, foodie, Hennessy Bar, Hot Air Balloon Cairns, Kangaroo Island, Kangaroo Island Odysseys, love of travel, Luxury Escapes, LUXURY TRAVEL, Mayfair Hotel, Mel Gee Henderson, Mind-Expanding Travel, Padi Diving, Perth, Port Douglas, Queensland, Quicksilver, Rottnest Island, Sailaway, Snorkeling in the Great Barrier Reef, Swan River Captain Cook Cruises, Sydney, Thala Beach Nature Reserve, The Hennessy Bar, The Mayflower Restaurant, Vivid Sydney, wanderlust
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BREAKING NEWS: ESCAPESEEKER “ECUADOR UNEQUALED” EPIC SEASON PROMO UNVEILED

Monday, May 1st, 2017

ESCAPESEEKER POST PRODUCTION ~ They say a picture is worth a thousand words. Accordingly, moving pictures must then be worth a thousand stories right? My amazing ESCAPESEEKER film team and I are thrilled to share the following first look at our Ecuador Unequaled promo, which I am confident will help illustrate how we capture each destination’s unique stories. As the ESCAPESEEKER series’ writer and host, I’m a firm believer that the stories are best told by the actual inhabitants–joyful, kind-hearted, generous, engaging–we seek out those who know best, and who proudly cherish their native land.

The Amazon grabs at your heart and never lets go. Our authentic Amazon experience during our stay at La Selva Amazon Eco-Lodge & Spa is something we will always cherish.

#intheirownwords…

I continually strive to utilize my interviewing skills a seasoned global journalist to present the right questions and allow our featured native “stars” to speak straight from their heart. Combined with my passion-driven, Emmy award-winning team’s photographic talents and artistry, I hope you’ll agree after viewing the promo that we achieved our lofty objective! We’ll keep you updated as to the exact broadcast dates and times of our brand new ESCAPESEEKER 2017 PBS Fall Season launch as soon as it becomes available. In the meantime, dream…and we hope you too, will be inspired to explore and discover this enticing, unequaled country we call ECUADOR! There’s no other place in the world that can compare.

http://https://youtu.be/T3D6A68uCbw

We wish to express our gratitude to all of our many Ecuadorian newfound friends who opened your doors to us, welcomed us warmly, and granted us an honest and rare insider’s glimpse into your extraordinary, inspiring lives.

#musicistheuniversallanguage: We had the privilege of witnessing the most fabulous evening immersed in beautiful Ecuadorian folk music at MISQUILLA with its Founder, Juan Fernando Velasco, Latin Grammy Nominated Artist, who also featured his gifted, fellow-Ecuadorian talents. #ittakesavillagetoproduceESCAPESEEKER

#envision. #explore. #embrace.

For a country its size, Ecuador offers an incredible list of #unequaledexperiences. With its Andean peaks, Amazon rainforest, indigenous markets, colonial towns–not to mention one of the most famous chains of volcanic islands in the world, inhabited by fascinating wildlife, some of which are found only in the Galapagos!

The Fausto Llerena Tortoise Center, a long-term program run jointly by the Galapagos National Park Directorate and the Charles Darwin Foundation, began in 1965 to save the giant tortoise population on Pinzón. It was quickly expanded to include other populations, in particular that of Española where only 14 individuals remained. As of 2008, more than 4,000 young tortoises from eight different populations have been repatriated to their island of origin, with nearly 1,500 going back to Española.

Charles Darwin described them as "hideous-looking" and "most disgusting, clumsy lizards." It's true, they're not pretty, with their wide-set eyes, smashed-in faces, spiky dorsal scales, and knotty, salt-encrusted heads. But what these unusual creatures lack in looks they make up for with their amazing and unique ecological adaptations. Wait until you see the fascinating footage we captured! I personally think 'beauty is in the eye of the beholder'--do you agree?

Charles Darwin described them as “hideous-looking” and “most disgusting, clumsy lizards.”
It’s true, some may say decide they’re not pretty, with their wide-set eyes, smashed-in faces, spiky dorsal scales, and knotty, salt-encrusted heads. But what these unusual creatures lack in looks they make up for with their amazing and unique ecological adaptations. Wait until you see the fascinating footage we captured! I personally think ‘beauty is in the eye of the beholder’–do you agree?

We feel it an absolute privilege to share Ecuador’s unique character, soulful heart, and unequaled beauty with the rest of the world. We could not have done it without your invaluable and generous support. On behalf of my entire ESCAPESEEKER team, Muchas Gracias!

Our destinations featured:

Quito: Casa Gangotena, [casagangotena.com] with music segment at Misquilla, [www.misquilla.com]

The High Andes’ Rainforest: Mashpi Lodge [www.mashpi.com]

The Ecuadorian Amazon: La Selva Amazon Eco-Lodge & Spa [www.laselvajunglelodge.com]

The Galapagos Islands: Haugan Cruises’ catamaran, “Petrel” [www.haugancruises.com]

Our heartfelt Thank you also to our brilliant, indefatigable ESCAPESEEKER Ecuador Unequaled “Guest Talents” who fuel our innate wanderlust and beautifully manifest their insatiable passion for travel:

#thewindbeneathmywings: Evan Zissimopulos, Jacob Voelzke, Roy Henderson, John Hempellman, Mary McGill, Dawn Adams, J. Dann Adams, Marjorie MacArthur, Tom Whittier, Christine Hedges, [Not pictured: Mimmie Byrne, Byrne, Melody Clyde]

Interested in joining our amazing team? FYI…Our #1 Rule we require all to adhere–You must take off your [American] lenses and see, feel, taste, embrace the country respectfully through the eyes of the natives.

Would you like more details or have questions regarding our #ecuadorunequaled adventure?

Feel free to write me at: escapeseeker@gmail.com or let’s chat via Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ESCAPESEEKER-367501815104/

I would love to hear from you!

Here’s to Blissful, Endless ESCAPES…

And, remember, no matter where you go, be the kindest person you know,

Mel aka ESCAPESEEKER

Saying Goodbye to Ecuador with a heart full of #gratitude #unequaled...

Saying Adios to Ecuador with a heart full of #gratitude #unequaled…

Tags: Adventure, Adventure Travel, Amazonian natives, Andean Cloud Forest, Baltra, Blue-footed Boobies, Casa Gangotena, Charles Darwin Foundation, Charles Darwin Theory of Evolution, Diving, Dolphins, Dominic Hamilton, Ecuador, Ecuadorian Amazon, Enriching Travel Experiences, ESCAPESEEKER, ESCAPESEEKER Travel Series, Española, Evan Zissimopulos, Frigatebirds, Galapagos National Park, Galapagos Wildlife, Haugan Cruises, Isabel Island, Jacob Voelzke, John Hempelmann, Juan Fernando Velasco, Luxury Escapes, Luxury Island Escapes, LUXURY TRAVEL, Luxury Travel Series, Marina Iguanas, Mary McGill, Mashpi Lodge, Mel Gee Henderson, Mind-Expanding Travel, Misquilla, Nature's Nirvana, Petrel, Quito, Rainforest, Roy Henderson, Selva Eco Lodge&Spa, Sixto, Snorkeling, The Faust Lelerena Tortoise Center, The Galapagos Islands
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A LUXURIOUS FLOATING HOTEL + BREATHTAKING LANDSCAPES + ENGAGING NEW FRIENDS = AMAWATERWAYS’ AMAPRIMA RIVER CRUISE

Friday, May 20th, 2016

Spring has sprung. And, nowhere is this more evident than in the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Amsterdam, here we come!

With select images by Jim Jones…

Peg Whisler Jones, and yours truly, the ESCAPESEEKER

Introducing my ESCAPESEEKER Team to the Art of River Cruising

Amsterdam, Netherlands ~ Ok, I have a confession: I’ve always been hesitant to go on a river cruise because I’ve had the conception that I would be stuck on a boat for seven days or more with senior cruisers, so senior that they would not be up for doing much of anything. And, the last thing I need right now is to be reminded of how old, I too, am becoming! Well, WOW! Was my conception a total MISconception! What I discovered and experienced has changed my view of River Cruising forever.

A bit of background: My ESCAPESEEKER Advisory Team

Three of my ESCAPESEEKER travel companions are members of my TV Program Advisory Team. They’re seasoned global travelers. And, they’re fearless, ready and eager to experience the very best in travel. Based on the activities we continually engage in–climbing mountains, white-water rafting, canoeing in the Amazon, scuba-diving in French Polynesia–you may never guess from our adventurous behavior that two of us are in our early 60’s, while the other two are in the prime of their seventh decade! And, the main trait we all share–we’re passionate about travel and the people who reside with us on this majestic planet! Oh yes, one more common trait–we have all managed to raise one huge family (each).

So when we’re not engaged in our extensive grand-parenting duties, we are conducting our ESCAPESEEKER advance research, and yes, the destination and experiences need to be simply amazing to make our time away from our families worth every second.

In figuring out which of the plethora of river cruising options we wanted to try, one in particular stood out from all the rest: AmaWaterways’ AmaPrima Tulip Cruise! After all it’s Spring time and we were advised everything is blooming in the Kingdom of the Netherlands!

Why AmaWaterways? It’s more than just about the destination–AmaWaterways is all about the complete journey.

We landed at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol around 8:30 a.m. and I have to say Schiphol is about the easiest airport to navigate. We were in the city being treated to a wonderful “Welcome ESCAPESEEKER breakfast” at the Hoofstad Brasserie overlooking the Amstel River, and located in the historic De L’Europe Amsterdam [http://www.deleurope.com/] the “Grand Dame” of luxury hotels in Amsterdam by 10 a.m. I highly recommend their delectable Spinach Eggs Benedict!

We had reserved two Junior Suites for the day, complete with a 6 pm late check-out in case we should need the extra time exploring the city before joining the AmaPrima later that same afternoon. It proved to be exactly what we needed to fuel up, freshen up, and get rid of any signs of jet lag. The city beckoned us, and we quickly acquiesced!

There’s nothing like walking and getting up close and personal to quickly orient yourself to the rhythm of the city.

AmaWaterways’ AmaPrima…River vessels are not created equal

Inspired by classic ocean yachts, the AmaPrima strives to provide the most distinctive river cruise experience. As you board, the magnificent glass elevator will catch your eye, hinting of the unique design elements you’ll continue to discover onboard. Being the lover of a well sunlit rooms, I was delighted to see our cabin had their exclusive “Twin Balconies” to allow for more private, friendly-viewing of the Netherland’s gorgeous landscapes. By the way, I soon discovered that certain ports required us to be tied to another commercial river boat. What an outstanding way to get a sneak peak of the competition, and I noted, we on the AmaPrima were the only ones who can relax in a heated Sun Deck swimming pool with a “swim-up” bar after our energizing bike rides–yes, AmaWaterways provides a fleet of bicycles for guests to enjoy–free of charge! Our ship also featured a Fitness Center, Massage, Hair and Beauty salon–and I was too busy having fun to take in any of it. You’ll have to test it out for me when it’s your turn to go river cruising on the AmaPrima ok?

Our Sweet Suite

It’s a given, most people who sign up for a River Cruise do not expect to find an extra large stateroom. After all, these river boats have their size limits so they are able to navigate the many locks throughout the voyage. What AmaWaterways did to make the cabins look and feel more expansive–they added the “twin balcony” concept for the majority of staterooms. It lets so much more light in, and combined with white on white plush bedding, it simply evokes what you would expect to find in a luxury 5-star hotel. Yes, it’s all there–the flat-screen TV, with local and satellite channels, spacious bathrooms with multi-jet showerheads, even the luxurious terry bathrobes! All combined, definitely keeps with my lux-seeking ESCAPESEEKER mantra!

Feasting our way through the Kingdom of the Netherlands…tough assignment right?

AmaWaterways offers an array of dining options for your culinary enjoyment. Enjoy Chaîne des Rôtisseurs culinary creations in the main dining room, or in the Chef’s Table restaurant with its own private chef.

AmaWaterways is proud to be the only river cruise line invited to join one of the world’s most prestigious culinary organizations founded in 1950 in Paris. Every AmaWaterways vessel cruising in Europe is an official member of La Chaine des Rotisseurs. Membership is considered an achievement of world-class culinary acumen.It was tough to distinguish the offerings on our floating restaurant from the land-based award-winning variety! After trying to control my intake and appetites I finally decided to just surrender, and just sign up for more excursions and activities that would help me physically burn the calories so I could “earn” the next amazing spread!

Burning calories with mind-expanding excursions

Are you a “gentle” take everything in kind of walker? Or are you an “active” fast walker that can’t wait to get to your target destination? Perhaps, you’re the kind of “late starter” tourist that’s in no hurry to get anywhere, even preferring to get your beauty sleep while on vacation? Well, no worries to all of the above because AmaPrima allowed us to set our own pace on shore excursions by signing up for the ones that describe our particular category–in my case–I definitely want to earn the evening’s dessert–I signed up for “active.” All AmaWaterways voyages ensure that you’re treated with personalized attention, on land, as well as on the river. The complimentary Shore Excursions provide an an immersive introduction land tour to every destination. The local guides did inspire me to dig deeper, immerse myself more into the history of the places we visited once we returned to our boat. If I could have my wish, I would wish we could stay longer at each location. Just when I was savoring the moment, it seemed, it was time to untie the boat and cruise onward.

Day 2	AMSTERDAM – VOLENDAM – EDAM We cruised the Ijsselmeer towards Volendam, enjoying a late afternoon tour of Volendam Harbor. Then, we continued by motor coach to Edam, a total postcard-perfect, picturesque town. I do not know how the Dutch maintain such immaculate homes and gardens. Our guide hinted “we’re all born with a green finger.” Is that the same as a green thumb? After tasting the local Edam cheese, we know they have a gift for cheese-making too. We walked by the Old Quarter’s beautiful houses, canals, bridges and churches with towering steeples, including one of the largest in Holland, the Grote Kerk (Great Church). We finished off our tour with a brief visit to the shoreline at Volendam. If there’s one thing you absolutely must try, it’s the tiny, dollar size Dutch pancakes. It is served with fresh whipped cream…to die for…I kid you not! It’s astounding to note that flood control is an important issue for the Netherlands, as about two thirds of its area is vulnerable to flooding, while the country is among the most densely populated on Earth. Natural sand dunes and constructed dikes, dams, and floodgates provide defense storm surges from the sea. River dikes prevent flooding from water flowing into the country by the major rivers Rhine and Meuse, while complicated system of drainage ditches, canals, and pumping stations (historically windmills) keep the low-lying parts dry for habitation and agriculture. Water control boards are the independent local government bodies responsible for maintaining this system. In modern times, flood disasters coupled with technological developments have led to large construction works to reduce the influence of the sea and prevent floods. In the interim, the Dutch became astute, expert sailors from residing by the sea, a trait that is evident everywhere we looked.
Day 3	ARNHEM – NIJMEGEN We arrived early, in beautiful Arnhem. The perfect weather we were blessed with only magnified how charming this small town is. Since my ESCAPESEEKER traveling companions are avid supporters of WWII veterans, we chose to see the monument commemorating the Battle of Arnhem Bridge made famous by the classic film “A Bridge Too Far.” Such a humbling sight to walk amidst the rows and rows of tombstones bearing the name of soldiers who sacrificed their lives to liberate Arnhem. We also visited the Airborne Museum to learn more about the Battle of Arnhem, one of the major campaigns of World War II. This was well worth the time. The town’s respect and reverence for those who died is clearly evident in this museum. After our tour, we returned to the ship for lunch and a stunning cruise to Nijmegen. Mother Nature was definitely on our side. The weather could not be any more fabulous as we cruised through the Netherlands en route to Belgium.
Day 4	ANTWERP, BELGIUMWe awoke to yet another glorious day, as we are welcomed to Antwerp. A walking tour of Antwerp helped us get oriented to the layout of the main square, displaying the city’s superb architecture. In the afternoon we bravely explored Antwerp on bicycles with our two local guides, following each through the charming streets of Antwerp, passing impressive historical sites such as Cogels Osylei, Waterloo House, St. Jacob’s Church and the Museum Ridder Smidt van Gelder. It was especially enjoyable to see the different neighborhoods, some established by early Jewish settlers that continue to this day. We returned to the ship with hearty appetites and our Chef definitely did not disappoint with yet, another amazing delectable spread.
Day 5	GHENT AND BRUGESThe evening’s cruised brought us to Ghent. A town I’ve only read about, I was eager to join the walked tour through the city, which included the Belfry Hall, the Koornlei, the Graslei and the Castle of the Counts. My camera was going on overdrive as I captured one gorgeous image after another. My only complain about Ghent? The city council had instituted these public, open air urinals, and honestly, the scent destroys you even before you get close enough to realize what you were about to encounter. Ghent, whatever where you thinking? Please, there must be another option besides ruining the beautiful ambiance of your camera-ready city? We couldn’t board our buses fast enough as we headed to Bruges for the afternoon–one of Europe’s most perfectly preserved medieval cities, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It did not take long for my team to realize that it was a Belgian holiday and everyone had the same idea–to take in beautiful Bruges. I had been to Bruges many times before, and I had never encountered such a crowd. So, my recommendation to you if you wish to visit Bruges–make sure it is not a Belgian holiday. After all, it is clear they love their impressive historic town as much as we do.By early evening, we were back on the beautiful AmaPrima cruising through the Dutch region of Zeeland, home to one of the world’s most complex engineering projects, the Delta Works, which took more than 30 years to complete!
Day 6	WILLEMSTAD, THE NETHERLANDS – KINDERDIJK – SCHOONHOVENOnce again, we were so excited knowing the morning light would find us biking through the charming 400-year old town of Willemstad. As we’ve discovered from previous tours, the Dutch are simply immaculate. No matter where we cycled, there was always a pleasant garden to greet our sight. I also conducted my own little test to see how friendly the Willemstad natives really are. Whenever I encountered one on our bike path, I would call out an enthusiastic “Hello from America!” They would always have such a surprise look on their face, and immediately respond with, “Hello!” Some would even add, “Thank you for visiting!” Or, “Please stay a while.” Yes, I found myself falling in-love with this beautifully manicured country. The hard-working people also inspire me. Who would have ever thought from their humble beginnings and challenging environments (“the Netherlands” means “the low lands” and the land only rises, on average, 1 meter above the sea level, with one third of the land is below sea level) would rise a country that once ruled an empire. In the 17th century, the Netherlands was the richest and one of the most powerful countries in the world. Thus, the Dutch call the 17th century the Golden Age. Their Dutch Empire had possessions around the world. The most important possession were the East Indies, a country that is now called Indonesia. And in case you are not aware, the Dutch also founded New Netherland, which is now known as New York. Yes, I guess we can say, the Big Apple was once a Dutch Apple! Here’s a little interesting Dutch trivia for you: In 2004 the United Nations declared that the Netherlands was the 5th best country to live in, in the world! I can totally understand why. Just think, if you’re English-speaking, and you moved to the Netherlands, you wouldn’t even need to learn Dutch any time soon because every native I’ve encountered thus far speaks fluent English. I can tell, I have a lot to learn from the unique lifestyles of the Dutch. In the meantime, I better keep biking. The AmaPrima awaits. In the afternoon, after another delicious lunch on the AmaPrima, we were transported in equally impeccable tour buses to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Kinderdijk, a lovely village renowned for having the country’s greatest concentration of windmills, all dating from the 18th century. The windmills at Kinderdijk are a group of 19 monumental windmills in the Alblasserwaard polder, in the province of South Holland, Netherlands. Built in 1738 and 1740, to keep water out of the polder, it is the largest concentration of old windmills in the Netherlands and one of the best-known Dutch tourist sites. The mills are listed as national monuments and the entire area is a protected village view since 1993. They have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. One of the first things you’ll notice when entering one of the Kinderdijk windmills, is the low door opening. In the early days the diets of the inhabitants of the windmills were not as well balanced as we are used to now. This caused the people to stay small, which resulted in low door openings. Working and living in a windmill is not easy. For instance, the windmills can only be reached by foot or bicycle. But even in the past, life was very difficult. The millers used to have large families, 10 to 12 children was no exception. There a several reasons for these large families: The influence of the church, no birth control, children often died in their first years, and the more sons, the more labor could be done in the mill and the land surrounding the windmill. However, because of their bad circumstances, the millers became self supporting, and they would grow their own vegetables, and raise their own livestock. Fast forward, present day, I’m reviewing our windmill photos, and I think they convey one clear, simple message: “Hello from Holland!” After our informative afternoon at Kinderdijk, we returned to our ship and as we dined at the Chef’s table, our ship cruised to Schoonhoven, where we moored until midnight. I can’t believe how quickly our time on the beautiful AmaPrima cruise is passing. All I want to do is freeze-frame to allow my memory more time to soak it all in. How in the world will I give up the “AmaZing” royal treatment we’re getting from the AmaPrima staff and crew? Please stop the clock!
Day 7	AMSTERDAM- KEUKENHOF – AMSTERDAM We arrived in Amsterdam the next morning, just in time to admire the spectacular display of millions of flowering tulips during our morning excursion to the famous 79-acre Keukenhof Gardens. Talk about color-overload! You cannot begin to comprehend its plethora of rainbow blooms unless you see it for yourselves. Also known as the Garden of Europe, it is one of the world’s largest flower gardens. It is situated in Lisse, southwest of Amsterdam. It is accessible by bus from the train stations of Haarlem, Leiden and Schiphol. According to the official website of the Keukenhof Park, approximately seven million flower bulbs are planted annually in the park, which covers an area of 32 hectares (79 acres). Keukenhof is open annually from mid-March to mid-May. The best time to view the tulips is around mid-April, depending on the weather. Keukenhof is situated on 15th-century hunting grounds. It was also a source of herbs for Jacqueline, Countess of Hainaut’s castle, which is the source of the name Keukenhof (it served to provide herbs for the castle’s kitchen). Rich merchants took over the grounds after the Countess’s death. Dutch East India Company Captain and Governor, Adriaen Maertensz Block lived there in his retirement years in the 17th century in the country house (now known as Castle Keukenhof) which he had let built in 1641. In the 19th century, the Baron and Baroness Van Pallandt assigned the landscape architect Jan David Zocher and his son Louis Paul Zocher, who had also worked on the Vondelpark, to design the grounds around the castle. The garden was established in 1949 by the then mayor of Lisse. The idea was to present a flower exhibit where growers from all over the Netherlands and Europe could show off their hybrids – and help the Dutch export industry. The Netherlands is the world’s largest exporter of flowers. Their plan clearly succeeded! All previous photos I had seen just cannot compare to seeing it in person, up close and personal! In the afternoon, all of our fellow passengers joined in a scenic sunset cruise through the historic harbor and canals of Amsterdam. Once again, my camera could not click fast enough. Amsterdam’s unique beauty grabs at my imagination. It’s a total movie-set, and yes, it makes me want to stay, rent a tiny alcove apartment where I can write my best-selling suspense novel. But then again, these historic houses do not come cheap. The better plan would be to write the best seller, make a ton of money, and then I can purchase that sweet alcove with a gorgeous view of the canal!There’s so much to see and do in Amsterdam, especially if you’re an artist, or just enjoy seeing the works of the Masters–Rembrandt, Van Gogh for starters. The Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, Anne Frank House, and the Stedelijk Museum are the most popular choices, but there are many interesting small museums. There are seventy five Amsterdam museums, which attract almost seven million visitors every year. Alongside the wealth of majestic Golden Age paintings, you’ll find exciting modern art, press, film, theater, photography museums and some unique Dutch treats like the Heineken, Ajax Arena Tours, and the Houseboat museum. And, Amsterdam wouldn’t be Amsterdam without the tourist appeal for the other eclectic side: Yes, you’ll also find the Sex, Erotic, Hash, or Torture museums. My entire team realized that one week in Amsterdam alone is necessary, no matter your taste in art, to dedicate and explore the incredible museum offerings. Alas, the evening would find us being treated to a final evening’s walk through Amsterdam, this time led by our dearest Amsterdammer friends, Robin Post van der Burg and Hanneke van Weel. Truly, such a special way to end our voyage, breaking bread with friends who treat us like family, while recalling our priceless Netherland experiences, all of which only fueled our desire to become new subjects in the Kingdom of the Netherlands! Yes, you can definitely count on us returning, sooner rather than later. Thank you AmaWaterways’ AmaPrima for an unforgettable voyage. To Captain Gerd, Cruise Manager, Rolfe, Hotel Manager, Gemma, Chef Jossef, Maitre d’ Romeo, and to our personal waiter Gabor, who took impeccable care of us at every meal, we extend our utmost heartfelt gratitude for granting us a River Cruise to remember! A Few Parting Words From Our Entire Team… “Cruising is such a tremendous way to make new friends, and connect with dear ones too. The AmaPrima’s size made making new friends so easy.”~ Mel Gee Henderson “I never expected that we would be dipping into AmaPrima’s pool in the early days of Spring in the Netherlands! It was wonderful after our bike rides!” ~ Peg Whisler Jones “Absolutely fantastic boat, fantastic trip with fantastic friends for a fantastic experience. THANK YOU. again.” ~ Jim Jones “The AmaPrima exceeded my expectations…I’m definitely a River Cruise convert! By the way, if you’re an avid biker, here’s a terrific biking map for Amsterdam that will come in handy! You’ll feel like a native Amsterdammer by the time you’re finished!” ~ Roy A. Henderson

Rudi Schreiner and Kristin Karst, received the 2016 Travvy Awards in New York City where AmaWaterways was honored to receive 6 Gold trophies including the coveted Best River Cruise Line Overall and Most Innovative Executive.

AmaWaterways was founded in 2002 by Rudi Schreiner, Kristin Karst and Jimmy Murphy. All Three brought tremendous experience, knowledge and dedication to the venture. Rudi was one of river cruising’s pioneers, having introduced the modern-day river cruise concept to the world of travel. Kristin brought with her vast sales and customer service experience. And, the third member, Jimmy Murphy is the founder and former owner of Brendan Vacations. Their combined expertise and passion for the river cruise business has resulted in a river cruise vacation experience that strives to exceed customer expectations. The toughest part of our team’s decision–with more than 20 different itineraries to choose from, which one would you pick? www.amawaterways.com

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Tags: 5th Best Place to Live in the World, Adventure Travel, Ajax Arena Tours, AmaPrima, AmaWaterways, Amsterdam, Amsterdammers, Antwerp, Arnhem, Belgium, Biking Through The Netherlands, Bruges, Canal Cruises, Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Dutch Pancakes, Edam, Edam Cheese, Enriching Travel Experiences, ESCAPESEEKER, ESCAPESEEKER Travel Series, Feasting Our Way Through The Netherlands, Ghent, Heineken, History of The Netherlands, Houseboat Museum, Jim Jones, Jimmy Murphy, Keukenhof Gardens, Kinderdijk Windmills, Kristin Karnst, Luxury Escapes, LUXURY TRAVEL, Luxury Travel Series, Mel Gee Henderson, Mind-Expanding Travel, Nijmegen, Peg Whisler Jones, Roy A. Henderson, Rudi Schreiner, Schoonhoven, Stedelijk Museum, The Netherlands, The Rijksmuseum, Tulips, UNESCO World Heritage Site, Van Gogh Museum, Vlenham, Willemstad
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TANGO IN BUENOS AIRES: A CAPITAL CITY THAT HAS IT ALL

Wednesday, March 9th, 2016

Buenos Aires, Argentina ~ I’ve been devoting a lot of ink these past few weeks on our One Ocean Expeditions Antarctic Adventure, which originated from the most southern city of Argentina [Ushuaia], which we accessed via the country’s vibrant Capital of Buenos Aires. Since everyone traveling to any region of Argentina passes through its gateway capital, it’s time for me to pause from my Antarctic wonderment and shine some light on one of South America’s most famous stars. #buenosaires!

BEFORE WE DELVE INTO THE PRESENT…WE MUST KNOW SOMETHING OF ITS PAST

The year–1808. Buenos Aires makes a final push for its independence from Spain and the town council in Buenos Aires cuts ties two years later in 1810. This move fueled further development of Argentina and its unique culture. Meanwhile across the Atlantic, Europe’s industrialization was booming, opening the doors for Buenos Aires to become one of the world’s leading explorers of agricultural products. It was at this time that a great deal of wealth was amassed in the capital, paving the way for residences modeled after French chateaux. It wasn’t too long before Buenos Aires aristocrats transformed the city into the “Paris of South America.”

La Mansión symbolizes the love story of Félix de Álzaga Unzué – dashing heir to a vast South American ranching fortune – who built the masterpiece as a wedding gift for his young bride, Elena Peña Unzué.

A Beaux Arts landmark set on the grounds of the Four Seasons, La Mansión evokes a time when Buenos Aires was referred to as the “Paris of South America” — a city obsessed with French culture, fashion and architecture. Now hailed as one of Argentina’s finest residences from this time period, La Mansión offers seven one-of-a-kind suites, each affording a unique opportunity to live the city’s history first-hand.

In the early 20th century, Buenos Aires marked the centenary of its first declaration of independence by building a subway system and wide avenues, once again inspired by the French capital–Paris.

Avenida 9 de Julio in downtown Buenos Aires is no ordinary avenue. Nine lanes wide, with gardens and beautifully manicured medians between the opposing flow of traffic, it is recognized as the widest street in the world! Only those with a quick pace and long strides will be lucky to get to the other side before the intersection’s traffic lights changes. A pedestrian crossing this street usually requires a few extra minutes, and two to three traffic light rotations. 9 de Julio Avenida is only one kilometer long, but 110 meters wide.

The Porteños, as the people of Buenos Aires are called, are proud of their city, and rightly so. It boasts some of the best dining–especially if you’re a fan of tender beef–as we discovered it’s a city staple! The shopping, the entertainment, the museums, and of course the TANGO for which the city is world-renowned, all combined have earned Buenos Aires its world class status.

THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

When To Go

First, remember, that summer in the northern hemisphere is winter in the southern hemisphere. That translates to Buenos Aires’ winter is from July to September. During this time, the temperature is chilly, but never below freezing. Summer is from December to March at which time its humidity and temperatures can rise to uncomfortable levels. Spring is from September to December, and autumn is from April to June–these are the two seasons most idyllic for exploring the city. The temperatures are mild, and you’re in the off-peak tourist season too–that is until the world reads my story!

Cash Is Still King

It is important to have cash on you at all times in Buenos Aires as credit cards are accepted in some places but NOT everywhere. Generally, top restaurants, hotels, and stores will accept credit cards. But many will only allow it on purchases over 50 pesos.

The Argentine Sun Sizzles

May I recommend that you bring at least two sets of sunglasses, a nice handy supply of sun block, and your favorite hat or two to protect you from the sizzling hot Argentine sun.

You’ll blend in nicely with all the stylish locals too. The people of Buenos Aires are naturally stylish and trendy but still manage to be wonderfully casual about it all. Feel free to bring your favorite fashionable threads as long as they’re comfy for walking and oodles of sightseeing. Warning: I would leave the expensive jewelry at home so as not to be an open enticement for sly street thieves.

However, should you forget anything at home, no worries. Buenos Aires provides a plethora of shopping opportunities!

Retail Therapy can be found at San Telmo Market, Calle Murillo, Palermo, Galerias Pacifico, and Recoleta.

The Feria de San Telmo is one of the most popular activities in Buenos Aires on Sundays. Artisans sell their beautiful handmade goods, and you’ll also find fabulous antiques, art, and delicious local fare. The market spans several blocks so wear good walking shoes. Street performers and tango dancers liven things up along the way. For more info, go to feriadesantelmo.com

Calle Murillo in Villa Crespo is the place to be if you’re in the market for leather goods–bags, belts and jackets are plentiful. Many of the items can be made to measure, so they’re a worthwhile investment. Negotiating is acceptable. But be aware that the leather items sold in this area is significantly cheaper than anywhere else in the city. The locals advised that Murillo 666 is known as one of the best stores with the most reasonable prices for leather goods on Calle Murillo.

The Palermo district of Buenos Aires, also known as Palermo Soho, is a mecca for design. There are plenty of unique specialty shops to please the discerning shopper.

Galerías Pacífico, a short walk from our Four Seasons Hotel, proved to be a convenient Mall to pick up a few items to refresh our summer wardrobe, especially since we had arrived from Antarctica–with an entirely different temperature range. The Mall is lined with high-end boutiques. But if you’re not inclined to pay the high prices, fear not, there’s a Zara anchored at the end of the Mall.

The Recoleta area of Buenos Aires is dotted with luxurious homes and hotels, and is one of the most affluent neighborhoods in the city.

But there’s an area that caught our interest even more: The Recoleta Cemetery, a must-see spot, for the closest thing I’ve seen like it is the Père Lachaise Cemetery, the largest cemetery in Paris, and one of the most famous cemeteries in the world. Well, the Recoleta Cemetery, the resting place of many wealthy (as demonstrated by their grand, elaborate, marbled tombstones) and famous Argentineans including Eva [Evita] Peron, definitely competes. Evita’s tomb is continually covered in flowers and letters from her fans who travel far and wide to pay their respects. To prevent her body from being stolen, as it had been many times by the various military governments installed after her husband’s fall from grace in 1955, she was finally buried in a concrete vault 8.1m (27 ft.) underground in 1976.

Weather permitting, free English-language tours are held every Tuesday and Thursday at 11am. Ask for information at the small office with the sign reading JUNIN 1790, between the cemetery gate and the church. The door is sometimes closed and locked during office hours, but you can still peek into the windows and talk to the staff, particularly Marta Granja, who speaks English. If you can’t take a tour or want to explore on your own, cemetery maps are also for sale at the gate, with proceeds going to the Friends of Recoleta Cemetery, a private group that helps with upkeep.

Once the garden of the adjoining church, the cemetery was created in 1822 and is among the oldest in the city. You can spend hours here wandering the grounds that cover 4 city blocks, full of tombs adorned with works by local and international sculptors. More than 6,400 mausoleums form an architectural free-for-all, including Greek temples and pyramids. Many other rich or famous Argentines are buried here as well, including a number of Argentine presidents whose tomb names you’ll recognize because they match some of the streets of the city. The newest presidential tomb is that of Raúl Ricardo Alfonsín, who died in 2009 and was the first president elected when the 1976-82 military dictatorship ended.

Most tourists who come here visit only Evita’s tomb, but among the many others, two are worth singling out and should not be missed. One is the tomb of the Paz family, who owned the newspaper La Prensa, as well as the palatial building on Plaza San Martín now known as the Círculo Militar. It is an enormous black stone structure covered with white marble angels in turn-of-the-20th-century dress. The angels seem to soar to the heavens, lifting the spirit of those inside with their massive wings. The sculptures were all made in Paris and shipped here. Masonic symbols such as anchors and pyramid-like shapes adorn this as well as many other Recoleta tombs.

Another tomb I recommend seeing is that of Rufina Cambaceres, a young woman who was buried alive in the early 1900s. She had perhaps suffered a coma, and a few days after her interment, workers heard screams from the tomb. When it was opened, there were scratches on her face and on the coffin from her attempts to escape. Her mother then built this Art Nouveau masterpiece, which has become a symbol of the cemetery.

Her coffin is a Carrara marble slab, carved with a rose on top, and it sits behind a glass wall, as if her mother wanted to make up for her mistake in burying her and ensure she could see her coffin if she were ever to come back again. The corner of the tomb is adorned by a young girl carved of marble who turns her head to those watching her; she looks as if she is about to break into tears, and her right hand is on the door of her own tomb. Many locals often place delicate sprigs of flowers into her hand. It seems each grave is accompanied with a story of triumph or tragedy–as told by their beloved family, painfully left behind.

EMBRACING ARGENTINA…Postcards from #beautifulbuenosaires

It has been said,“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.” The greatest blessing of being the ESCAPESEEKER is the tremendous, brilliant, inspiring friends I meet wherever I travel. I was thrilled to reunite with Argentine friends, Felix and Sole Bialet whom I first met while on assignment on board @paulgauguincruises m/v Tere Moana in the summer of 2013! Felix and Sole not only welcomed me, but my traveling companions as well. It is as if no time had passed!#tequieroargentina #ifeelblessed Honestly, the #world is full of #engaging, #kind #friends just waiting to be met! — with Felix Bialet and Sole Bialet at Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires.

Just hanging out with the #whoswho of #argentina I learned so much from our brilliant @metropolitantouring Argentina #guide Andrea! Thank you for our #mindexpanding day Andrea, and for teaching us about #argentinaslegends:#carlosgardel #alfonsinastorni and #jorgeluisborges #tequieroargentina — at Gran Cafe Tortoni.

THAT EXACT MOMENT WHEN YOUR GRACIOUS GUIDE BECOMES MORE LIKE FAMILY

Maybe it was because we were standing inside Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral–an architectural masterpiece where former Archbishop Jorge Mario Bergoglio of Buenos Aires listened to many in his parish bear their souls. But we never realized we were about to have one of the most moving experiences of our Argentine journey. Part way through our tour of this beautiful Cathedral, Andrea began to tell us her story.

Andrea has a genetic propensity to cancer and has been fighting cancer most of her life. If that was not enough of a burden, she lost her only brother when he died in the war with Britain over the Falkland Islands. Shortly later, her husband and only child were killed in an automobile accident in which she too was seriously injured. She laid despondent in the hospital for weeks. She wanted to end her life and asked her father for help. Her dad said he would help but since Andrea was his only surviving child he said would end his life the day after she took her life. (She said her dad was really smart.) She decided she could not commit suicide under those circumstances.

Andrea left the hospital not knowing what to do. She then went to the Cathedral for Confession and asked the priest for help. The priest said he could not counsel her in the confessional but she should return later that day and give her name to an assistant at the Cathedral. That was the beginning of many months of weekly counseling sessions with the priest whose name she did not know. She later learned her counselor was Jorge Mario Bergoglio, the Archbishop of Buenos Aires.

Andrea recovered her mental health but is still fighting cancer. She is a bright, cheerful guide. Recently while waiting for a medical appointment she received a call on her cell phone. It was her counselor, Pope Francis I, checking up on her!! After finding that Andrea was okay, Pope Francis asked her to pray for him. Her story is a true testament of the marvelous, compassionate character of Pope Francis I. No matter where they reside, they will always be the parish priests caring for the Children of God. We were all in tears as we huddled around this beautiful soul–our extraordinary guide, Andrea! From that moment on, we all felt like one big family, bearing each other up. Life is filled with its unpredictable challenges, and when we support one another, we are no longer strangers, but members of a caring circle of #humanKIND! [Photo of Pope Francis captured by yours truly, the ESCAPESEEKER during my 2013 assignment at the Vatican.]

It is such a #joy teaming this #epic #antarctica #argentina @escapeseeker assignment with Roy Henderson, Mary McGill, and John Hempelmann! Savoring @fsbuenosaires hospitality and exploring this vibrant city before we move on to our final stop: #iguazu #falls …another world’s wonder awaits us! I #love my @escapeseeker team! Te quiero #argentina — at Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires.

WHERE TO STAY

Our two top pics:

1) The Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires with its unrivaled views of the vibrant Argentine Capital.

This is how @fsbuenosaires greets their very happy guests, yours truly the @escapeseeker included! #delicious #argentina …my team and I were fueled every morning for a full day of #buenosaires #exploration! Thank you @fsbuenosaires #tequieroargentina — at Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires.

2) The Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Buenos Aires is decorated with antique Persian and contemporary carpets over wood floors, silk curtains and crystal chandeliers. It’s underground Art Gallery showcases renowned contemporary artists rotating every two months, as well as a permanent collection of original contemporary fine art on display throughout the hotel. I love the Palacio’s magnificent garden that sits like an elegant sanctuary, an oasis in the middle of the city.

At the Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, dining is also a work of art!

Buenos Aires is truly a #worldclass capital with something for everyone…including those of us who have wished to learn how to TANGO all our lives! I need to practice a bit more before I share my tango steps. But, I’ve definitely been bitten by the Tango bug…and the only cure is to return to Buenos Aires and dance with the native pros! What a graceful way to wrap up a beautiful stay in Buenos Aires!

We will be returning in October, 2016 with our entire ESCAPESEEKER film crew. I’ve intentionally left out additional extraordinary activities we engaged in–after all, we have to reserve some surprise elements for our extremely talented cinematographer!

Here’s to #blissful, #endless, #amazing #escapes…and remember, no matter where you go, be the kindest person you know.

With love and gratitude to all who make being the ESCAPESEEKER a continued series of “Pinch me moments”…

Mel

PS: Stay tuned for my next report…destination? Iguazu Falls!

*****

To access our outstanding native guides contact: mbrown-zavaleta@metropolitantouring.com.ar | www.metropolitan-touring.com

To book our tremendous professional TANGO instructors: Rachel Makow <rachelmakow@yahoo.com>

Tags: Adventure Travel, Archbishop Jorge Mario Bergoglio, Argentina, Argentine Beef, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires Capital, Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral, Calle Murillo, City Oasis, Dining in Argentina, Enriching Travel Experiences, ESCAPESEEKER, ESCAPESEEKER Travel Series, Evita's Resting Place, Felix Bialet, Feria de San Telmo, Four Seasons Buenos Aires, Galerías Pacífico, Gardens, John Hempelmann, La Mansión, LAN AIRLINES, Luxury Escapes, Mary McGill, Mel Gee Henderson, Mind-Expanding Travel, One Ocean Expeditions, Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, Palermo, Paul Gauguin Cruises, Pope Francis I, Recoleta Cemetery, Roy Henderson, Rufina Cambaceres Tomb, Shopping in Buenos Aires, Sole Bialet, Tango
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WHALERS’ WOES: Ruins of an Industry Rusting at the Bottom of the World; And, the GREATEST WILDLIFE GATHERING I’ve Ever Witnessed!

Wednesday, March 2nd, 2016

Writer’s Notes: On January 6, 2016, our One Ocean Expedition made several visits to South Georgia Island. Prior to our arrival, I became absorbed in Sir Ernest Shackleton’s book, “South” wherein he vividly chronicled their Antarctic expedition, their failed attempt to reach the South Pole, and his unbelievable, triumphant rescue of his men. Between Shackleton’s book and One Ocean Expeditions’ daily lectures from the on-board Antarctic scholars, my thirst for further Antarctic history and knowledge continued to deepen. I read just about everything I could get my hands on during sea-days. And, to have it all come alive during our South Georgia Island visits was better than any university class I could have taken. If you’re the kind of traveler who demands more than just a drive-by cruise experience in Antarctica, then I highly recommend you seek out the authentic expedition companies like One Ocean Expeditions that fuel the imagination, and brings the history/nature books to life. ~ Mel Gee Henderson

PS: Your hunger for knowledge does not end when you disembark at the end of the epic expedition. As I’ve discovered, the more I’ve learned, the more I hunger for more. And, honestly, isn’t that what travel is designed to do? Make us all brighter at the end of the day!

Quote of the Day: “Don’t tell me how educated you are, tell me how much you traveled.” ~ Mohammed

South Georgia Island ~ At the start of the last century, dozens of companies set up whaling operations on South Georgia Island. After several highly profitable decades, however, they became victims of their own success and modernization. If these walls could talk, what stories they would tell? Welcome to Grytviken.

Grytviken was the first whaling station to launch operations on the British island of South Georgia, lying in the South Atlantic roughly 2,000 kilometers (1,200 miles) due east of the bottom boot tip of Argentina. For 58 years, Grytviken was in continuous operation. It survived two world wars and a global economic crisis, greeted expeditions to Antarctica that had gotten stuck in pack ice and processed an enormous number of whales into oil and meat. In more than half a century, it handled 53,761 slaughtered whales, producing 455,000 metric tons of whale oil and 192,000 metric tons of whale meat. Then Grytviken became the icy ghost town that it is today. This fate was shared by all the whaling stations in the Antarctic. As the whaling industry boomed at the beginning of the 20th century, dozens of companies set up whaling operations here. When it became clear that whaling could fetch hefty profits, six permanent whaling stations were set up on South Georgia alone. Grytviken was the last to close up shop.

Today, all that remains is a movie theater, a church, a museum and a cemetery. All the cozy homes have been buried and destroyed by snow and ice. All the original residents have moved away, or died long ago. A landscape once filled by 500 men and their families is now inhabited by at most a few penguins, seals and tourists like me. And what was a remote stronghold of industrial whaling roughly a century ago is now nothing more than a city of ice, snow and rubble, and a handful of incredibly resilient, hardy caretakers who ensure that the island’s unique history isn’t totally lost.

Whaling Where Only The Fearless Go

The prevailing view at the time was that whaling around the South Pole promised little. Nonetheless, the pioneers of Antarctic whaling were convinced that whaling would still be a good idea because Europe’s northern seas had largely been emptied of whales by the turn of the century. On November 16, 1904, the Fortuna and another ship dropped anchor off Grytviken, and the station’s new 80-member crew set to work. It didn’t take long before the station was up and running. By Christmas Eve, the men had produced the first barrel of whale oil. Within a year’s time, that figure was meant to skyrocket to 7,000.

Whale Oil To Light The World

The whales were hunted down on the open seas, shot with harpoons, dragged to port and heaved onto shore at the stations. They were particularly prized for their blubber, the white layer of fat beneath the skin. At the time, the glycerin derived from this blubber was the main element used in cosmetic products like soaps and lotions, but it also formed the basis of fuels for oil lamps and boilers.

Whale hunters are dwarfed by their huge catch, a fin whale, on the whaler ‘Q Plain’ off Crytoiken or Grytviken, South Georgia. (Photo by Central Press/Getty Images)

As time went on, the competing whaling stations continued to boost their capacities. At times, they even had to lend each other empty barrels when stations had more fat than containers to store it in. Between 1907 and 1908, the station at Grytviken produced more than 27,000 barrels of oil, after having filled only about 12,000 the previous year. These years in the first decade of the 20th century were also a golden era for those who invested in such operations: Within a single year, their dividends rose a mighty 15 percent, to reach 32.5 percent.

Even after Europe slid into war in 1914, things continued to go comparatively well for the whale hunters in the Antarctic. The supply of coal needed to fire the blubber-melting boilers admittedly got tighter. But the general shortage of resources simultaneously drove the price of whale oil up. Indeed, at times Grytviken could fetch up to 90 British pounds for a metric ton of whale oil — more than they had ever earned before. The whale fat also found use in the war effort, with blubber-produced nitroglycerin being used in explosive artillery shells and bombs. What’s more, there was growing demand in war-plagued Europe for cheap, but nutritious whale meat.

Butchering the whales at the stations was hard work done by hand. After being harpooned and towed to port, the whales were winched up a ramp and onto shore to die. Using sharp blades, two men made incisions on both sides of the whale along its entire length. From these, the white blubber would then pour out to the left and right. In the end, the men would strip the skin of the whale and separate the blubber from the meat.

A rusty whaling ship lies at the abandoned Husvik whaling station in Stromness Bay, South Georgia Island. When the whaling industry boomed at the beginning of the 20th century, dozens of companies set up whaling operations here. When it became clear that whaling could fetch hefty profits, six permanent whaling stations were set up on South Georgia alone.

Lured by high oil prices, some 19 companies set up whaling operations in the Antarctic at the beginning of World War I. Many of them wanted to speed up the killing process by going out on the high sea to hunt without a permit or dedicated processing stations. In doing so, they also cut into the business of land-based competitors, such as the Grytviken station.

40,000 Hunted Whales in a Single Season

The situation came to a head the following year, with whales becoming increasingly scarce and the storage rooms filling with unsold oil. In the 1930/31 season, the slaughter at the South Pole reached its zenith: A total of 40,201 whales were killed, about 32,000 of which were killed by unlicensed hunters on the open sea. By way of comparison, when Grytviken heralded in the era of industrial whaling in the Antarctic in 1904, whalers killed only 183 whales in the initial year.

The companies agreed to voluntary quotas for the next season, but the limits came too late for many species. By the mid-1930s, the humpback whale was virtually extinct in the Antarctic. At the same time, overproduction drove the price of whale oil to a record low. One station after another on South Georgia went under. By the time World War II broke out, only two were still active: Grytviken and Leith Harbour, whose cold warehouse also stored tons of whale oil produced in Grytviken.

Grytviken stayed afloat only because it still had financial reserves left from the golden years to temporarily cushion its losses. But the few successful years couldn’t make up for the fact that the company needed restructuring and to update its dilapidated station. In 1950, for example, Grytviken was being served by six harpoon boats that had been in service for more than 20 years.One last attempt at modernization in 1962 came too late.

Note: My special thanks to einestages.de, SPIEGEL ONLINE’s history portal for being a tremendous Grytviken research source.

POSTCRIPT to GRYTVIKEN

Grytviken has been cleaned up and restored to a great degree by the Government of South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands. We learned that the Norwegian Government has also provided some level of funding because the total annual Budget of the Government in South Georgia is $9 million. They run a tight and efficient staff with only seven employees. We met one Government Official named, Simon, and the rest are in Stanley or on their Fisheries Patrol Boats. Almost all the Government revenue comes from the sale of fisheries licenses, and visitors’ fees which are $60 per day, per person. We were happy to do our part. They’ve also recruited a Museum Intern, Matthew, who gave us an in-depth tour and enlightened briefing on how the old whaling station used to operate. The Museum is sponsored by the University of St. Andrews and students like Matthew are selected to spend 6 months in Grytviken. After our adventures on shore we returned to our Ship for a delightful dinner. We were joined by several of the Museum and government staff at Grytviken, including Simon and Matthew, and some of the scientists from the nearby British Station. Once again, we made new friends. It was difficult to say goodbye to our brilliant Grytviken friends!

After sailing all night, we landed at St. Andrews Bay where three large glaciers reach and caress the frosty sea. The surf was roaring as if to share in our excitement at reaching land. As we approached the shore, words from our King Penguin lecturer echoed in my mind, “You will witness what may be the largest colony of King Penguins on earth!” Well, our young Biologist, Kathryn was right. The King Penguins seem to carpet the entire South Georgia landscape! We were also greeted by HUGE (spoken in Trump fashion) Elephant Seals and a scattering of Fur Seals too. If ever I felt like a total alien on another planet, this was the day! Nothing could prepare me for this incredible experience. What an absolute “Pinch Me Moment!” Thank you Mother Nature. Once again, my heart overflows with gratitude for eyes that can witness the grandeur of our majestic Planet Earth.

“Row upon row of king penguins stretching off into the distance. This colony in Salisbury Plain, South Georgia, has hundreds of thousands of inhabitants! The brown chicks creche together and stand out from the tuxedoed adults.” ~Photo and caption by Craig Tomsett

We have one more day on South Georgia and then we sail to Antarctica–my 7th Continent. My heart is that of a teen in-love for the very first time…it’s throbbing with anticipation!

If you wish to follow in my ESCAPESEEKER footsteps, the easiest way to begin is by clicking on the following link: oneoceanexpeditions.com

Remember, no matter where you go, be the kindest person you know…and yes, that includes ALL living creatures you shall encounter.

Here’s to #blissful, #mindexpanding #soulenriching ESCAPES,

Mel aka The ESCAPESEEKER

ESCAPESEEKER Priceless moment captured by Craig Tomsett. [Salisbury Plain, South Georgia Island]

Tags: 7th Continent, Adventure, Adventure Travel, Antarctic Expedition., Awestruck by Antarctica, Craig Tomsett, Elephant Seals, Enriching Travel Experiences, ESCAPESEEKER, ESCAPESEEKER Travel Series, Fur Seals, Grytviken, Grytviken Museum, History of South Georgia, King Penguins, Mel Gee Henderson, Mind-Expanding Travel, One Ocean Expeditions, Scotia Sea, South Atlantic, South by Sir Ernest Shackleton, South Georgia Island, South Sandwich Islands, The Great White Continent, Whale Oil, Whalers, Whaling Station
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INCREDIBLE! BEYOND DESCRIPTION! OUT OF THIS WORLD!

Wednesday, February 17th, 2016

ESCAPESEEKER is privileged to feature our outstanding Antarctica Advance Research Team member, John Hempelmann. One of our program’s goals is to deliver the “JOY of TRAVEL”…and no one exudes more #joy than our #brilliant, #adventurous adviser and friend!

South Georgia Island ~ “Simply Amazing!” Add this to the superlatives in the Title above, and you have the exact sentiments expressed by our own ART [Advance Research Team] member, John Hempelmann, describing our January 5th premiere exploration of South Georgia Island via One Ocean Expeditions.

John’s report is so eloquently written, and reflective of his contagious enthusiasm for the wonders of our planet, that it seems only apropos that I share it with you verbatim! And, yes, in case you are wondering, above is a picture of John I captured during the most flawless, unforgettable Antarctic sea-kayaking day. More on that adventure later…but for now, please permit me to share John’s eloquent report…and you’ll understand why he is so contagiously #happy!

In his own words…

Incredible! Beyond Description! Out of this World! Amazing! These words do not begin to describe accurately our experiences today on South Georgia Island. Even the stunning pictures and videos will not be enough to convey the majesty and uniqueness of what we have seen and experienced.

It is so appropriate today is January 5 because that is the day Ernest Shackleton died here on South Georgia Island in 1922. It was here he started his ill-fated expedition to cross the Antarctic Continent. After his ship, the Endurance, was crushed by the ice in the Weddell Sea on Antarctica, it was here he landed after 17 days at sea in a small boat in his successful, arduous effort to save all his men. This is the 100th Anniversary of Shackleton’s Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition.

We sailed for two days and three nights, mostly in fog, to get here. We crossed the Antarctic Convergence Zone and the temperature plummeted below freezing. Finally, this morning the fog began to dissipate as we sighted icebergs, and then cliffs, waterfalls and glaciers running into the sea. (There are 160 glaciers on the Island.) The sea had come alive with many species of birds, seals and fast swimming penguins. Then the winds blew all the fog and clouds away and it was white mountains, icy glaciers and the Salisbury Plain lying before us. The Plain was left by the retreating glacier and now it is home to thousands of fur seals and more than a hundred thousand King Penguin breeding pairs (YES, more than two hundred thousand big funny birds).

It was a mind blowing experience coming ashore through the surf on the Zodiac and walking into this huge conglomeration of wildlife. There were darling baby fur seals and penguins everywhere.

[Image captured by Mel Gee Henderson]

The huge parent seals snoozed in the sun–until you got too close and then a huge mammal would jump up and bark at you. Occasionally, a big seal would charge but we could deter them with the point of a walking stick (a ski touring pole). One big guy tried to bite the tip of my pole but I snapped back at him and he retreated. They were EVERYWHERE–hundreds of them. We walked across the Plain as King Penguins came up to check us out. We climbed a very steep hillside of tussac grass and mud to get to the edge of the penguin colony. You will find this hard to believe or envision but there were hundreds of thousands of brown furry juvenile penguins and their parents in their beautiful black and white coats and they were all jammed together like a huge river running down to the sea. It was incredible! This description is completely inadequate. We watched for a long time and looked out over the Plain at the wildlife, the craggy white mountains and our white Ship in the distance floating in a blue sea against a blue sky.

After Dinner on the Ship, we set out again in the Zodiac and explored the fur seal colonies along the shore of King Olav Inlet in Cook (yes, the Captain Cook) Bay. Our scientists carefully counted the seals and made notes. As the light faded, we cruised by an old whaling station abandoned early in the 20th Century. It was a wreck and there was an old whaling ship wrecked on the beach. After the whaling parties completely depleted the whales, they just packed up and left. Eerie!! We are in a new era and saw the history of an old era.

Tomorrow, we sail to Stromness Harbor and Grytviken Whaling Station.

Our Adventure Continues…

We hope you’ll stay tuned as our Russian vessel, the Akademik Iofee navigates across these icy waters and brings us ever closer to the GREAT WHITE CONTINENT!

From our entire Antarctica team pictured above, yours truly, Roy Henderson, Mary McGill, and John Hempelmann…

Here’s to #blissful, #endless #ESCAPES,

Mel aka the ESCAPESEEKER

Tags: Adventure Travel, Akademik Iofee, Antarctica, Enriching Travel Experiences, ESCAPESEEKER, ESCAPESEEKER Travel Series, Fur Seals, Go Somewhere You Have Never Been, John Hempelmann, King Penguins, Mary McGill, Mel Gee Henderson, Mind-Expanding Travel, One Ocean Expeditions, Roy Henderson, Sea Kayaking, Sir Ernest Shackleton, South Georgia Island, The Great White Continent
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“I seemed to vow to myself that someday I would go to the region of ice and snow…” ~ Ernest Shackleton

Tuesday, February 16th, 2016

One-hundred years later, against all odds, my ESCAPESEEKER team and I find ourselves miraculously stepping onto the same continent that drew one of the world’s greatest explorer, Sir Ernest Shackleton.

How does one prepare for an expedition to ANTARCTICA?

If you can truthfully sign the following One Ocean Expeditions form, then you are definitely a solid candidate to embark on one of the most extraordinary voyages of your life.

I am in good general health, and capable of performing normal activities on this expedition. I further attest that I am capable of caring for myself during the expedition, and that I will not impede the progress of the expedition or the enjoyment of others on board. I understand this expedition will take me far from the nearest medical facility and that all expedition members must be self-sufficient. With that understanding, I certify that I have not been recently treated for, nor am I aware of, any physical, mental or other condition or disability that would create a hazard to myself or other members of the expedition.

Signature: ______________________

After researching the various entities that offered Antarctic adventures, we selected One Ocean Expeditions because we wanted to have an authentic up-close and personal Antarctica experience–not merely a “drive by”–or should I say, “cruise by.” I was also particularly moved by the sentiment expressed by One Ocean Expeditions‘ Founder and Managing Director, Andrew Prossin, “My Mother told me to work hard. She told me that the world is made of guts and grits and spirits, that you get out what you put in. And, if you bring this into what you do, you can know about joy.”

I believe our Mothers are “cut from the same cloth.” I knew that if I was going to venture for 21 days to the world’s coldest, windiest, highest continent on the planet, I wanted an organization that aspires to “knowing joy” and, is not afraid of hard work. As Sir Ernest Shackleton said, “Difficulties are just things to overcome, after all.” Our due diligence and research of One Ocean Expeditions revealed they possessed the “guts, grits, and spirits” to overcome any difficulty that may arise. And, with our Antarctic-approved cold weather gear, we landed in Ushuaia, Argentina–our expedition’s embarkation port one day before our embarkation date of December 30, 2015. To say our team is filled with anticipation would be an understatement! Thus, with the following dispatch by our ESCAPESEEKER team member, John Hempelmann to friends and family back home, we were on our way to making our lifelong dream come true–to set foot on Antarctica:

“We have started our adventure to the bottom of the World. We left the beautiful Argentine capital, Buenos Aires, and flew another 3 hours due south to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego, the southernmost town in South America. Many on our flight had packs and walking sticks and they were clearly headed to backpacking to experience the exceptional beauty of the National Parks within Argentine Patagonia. It was 85 degrees F. yesterday in Buenos Aires and it is 40 today in Ushuaia. As I write this report, the sun has just set and it is 10:30PM. Tomorrow we board the Akademik Ioffe, our “ice hardened” expedition ship. The Ship is named after a famous Russian physicist who helped invent radar to detect German warplanes early in WW II. We can’t believe it is really happening. What an amazing way to close 2015, and welcome 2016. Our Seventh Continent–Antarctica, here we come!”

January 1, 2016 ~ Happy New Year!

We woke up this morning approaching the Falkland Islands and, as John was making the cafe mochas, Mary McGill, the 4th member of our ESCAPESEEKER team took advantage of photo opportunities of dolphins and albatross outside the port window of our cabin. Did you know the albatross has the largest wing span, 5.5 to 6 feet, of any bird in the world, and it can fly and glide hundreds of miles because, among other capabilities, it can fly while most of its brain is sleeping?

The wandering albatross, snowy albatross, white-winged albatross or goonie (Diomedea exulans) is a large seabird from the family Diomedeidae, which has a circumpolar range in the Southern Ocean.

Yesterday we left South America and headed NE. They say the Falklands and South Georgia are incredible and most expeditions head straight for Antarctica because they have less time allocated for use of this research ship. On board to provide passengers with daily briefings, we have One Ocean Expeditions’ historians, geologists, naturalists, botanists, and those studying the ice and the sea. Two researchers are doing a census of various species of penguins. There are also three professional photographers, one of whom is a young Israeli, Roie Galitz, a world famous wildlife photographer, and his videos are amongst the most spectacular we have even seen. If you’re like us and thrive on mind-expanding experiences, well, we’ve found just the right “land and sea continuing ed.” One can never learn too much!

As an added bonus of the One Ocean Expeditions, we have an opportunity to continually improve our photography skills by learning from the pros.

The Akademik Ioffe is an amazing ship crewed entirely by Russians. It is based in Kaliningrad in the Baltic. It was specifically designed for polar exploration and research and thus we can go places the “cruise ships” cannot go near. There are “rumors” this ship was designed to locate other “boats” like the USSB Henry M. Jackson but the Ohio Class boomers run so deep, so fast and so quietly that even the US Navy cannot find them. Apparently, this ship gave up trying. Now this ship takes scientists of all kinds to the polar regions to study the sea, the ice, the geology, the birds, mammals and other creatures.

We had two spectacular shore landings today in the West Falkland Islands. Except for our visit to Stanley (Pop: 2220, half of whom are British military), which has a pier (weather permitting), we go ashore in Zodiac inflatables. We are outfitted in complete water/wind proof expedition suits and boots.

Our first shore landing is on West Point Island:

There is a resident couple who are “Island Sitting” and have been on the Island for 3 years. They have already sailed their 30 foot sailboat 300,000 miles (that is NOT a typo). We hiked about two miles across the Island and encountered an incredible colony of thousands of rock hopper penguins nesting with black browed albatross. As you’ll note, they all had little ones.

Images captured by Mel Gee Henderson at West Point Island, The Falklands.Before we left for the Ship, the local couple invited us to join them for tea and cookies in their little English cottage where they receive provisions by boat from Stanley every few months.

After returning to the Ship and lunch, we landed on Carcass Island. The winds had increased to 30 knots so we had a wild, wet and bumpy trip into the beach. It was worth it! We had marvelous encounters with Magellinac penguins (named by Ferdinand Magellan) and the classic Gentoo penguins (the waddling guys in dinner suits).

Magellanic Penguins on the Falkland Islands. [Image by Roie Galitz]

We are safely returned to the Akademik Ioffee by our skilled One Ocean Expeditions’ zodiac navigator, Ian Peck.

The anchor has been hoisted and we now prepare for what would become one of many unforgettable evenings of story-sharing as we break bread with our new found friends from around the world.

Wow, this is definitely a New Years Day we will never forget!

Stay tuned as we continue on our epic ESCAPESEEKER expedition to the bottom of the world!

ESCAPESEEKER...Tracing the footsteps of Sir Ernest Shackleton.

ESCAPESEEKER…Tracing the amazing footsteps of Sir Ernest Shackleton.

Image captured by Mel Gee Henderson

You too, can follow in our ESCAPESEEKER adventure: www.oneoceanexpeditions.com

Tags: Adventure Travel, Akademik Ioffe, Andrew Prossin, Antarctica, Enriching Travel Experiences, ESCAPESEEKER, ESCAPESEEKER Travel Series, Falkland Islands, John Hempelmann, Mary McGill, Mel Gee Henderson, Mind-Expanding Travel, One Ocean Expeditions, Roy Henderson, Sir Ernest Shackleton
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AWESTRUCK BY ANTARCTICA! ESCAPESEEKER CELEBRATES 7TH CONTINENT!

Monday, February 1st, 2016

[Above Images captured by Israel-based photographer, Roie Galitz, http://www.roiegalitz.com/]

On January 11, 2016, a special member of our ESCAPESEEKER ANTARCTICA ADVANCE RESEARCH TEAM, John Hempelmann, submitted the following report:

As we arrive in Antarctica, the seas are stormy and it is snowing. Snow in January makes sense but it is Summer here now! Here are a few facts about Antarctica to put everything in context.

Mother Nature’s Monuments leave us breathless.

Antarctica is the coldest, windiest, highest and driest of all the Continents. It can be 80 degrees below zero in the winter. The average elevation is 7500 feet. In the winter (March-October), the ice spreads over the sea essentially doubling the size of the Continent. Ice covers 99% of the Continent. In some places, the ice is 3 miles thick and over a million years old. Because there are so many mountains here, the ice “flows” down to the sea as glaciers or forms “ice shelves” that float on the sea. Some of the ice shelves are huge like the Ross Ice Shelf which has hundreds of square miles of area. Because they float on the sea, the ice shelves move around. Icebergs are formed when wave action moves the edges of glaciers or ice shelves up and down and pieces break off. These icebergs have incredibly dense ice so they last a long time and can travel hundreds of miles in the currents. We have seen many very large icebergs during our 72 hour sail from South Georgia Island to Antarctica. Fortunately, they show up really well on the radar. (We can go up to the Bridge most any time we wish, and that is a neat place to watch over the bow and see all the instruments used by the crew.) About 90% of all the world’s ice is in Antarctica and it locks up almost 70% of all the surface fresh water in the world. Even with all the snow and ice, Antarctica has deserts–dry valleys–but I will explain that strange fact at another time.

Despite the ice and the harsh conditions, Antarctica is rich in wildlife, especially whales, seals, penguins and sea birds. This is primarily the result of a sea that is rich in Krill, a tiny crustacean that is produced in the billions here. As the ice melts into the sea, the cold water drops to the bottom and warmer water rises to the surface. The ice shelves form an insulating layer under which the krill grow and thrive. All the mammals feed on the krill and the seals eat the penguins, the whales eat the seals, etc.

250,000 breeding pairs of King Penguins as far as the eye can see.

As you know, very few people ever get to the Antarctic. We are told only .0004% of the people in the world get here (and even fewer get to South Georgia Island). We are SO fortunate. ~ John Hempelmann

*****

On December 30, 2015, our ESCAPESEEKER team began an epic voyage to ANTARCTICA with ONE OCEAN EXPEDITIONS‘ Russian research vessel, Akademik Iofee. For the next several days, we will be posting daily journal reports penned during our voyage as we made our way to the GREAT WHITE CONTINENT! We will include images captured throughout our expedition by team members, Mary McGill, Roy A. Henderson, John Hempelmann, and yours truly, Mel Gee Henderson.

Bidding Farewell to Ushuaia, Argentina. The excitement is evident on everyone’s happy faces.

Please stay tuned as we sort through thousands of stunning images, film clips, and beautiful reports penned straight from our hearts!

Here’s to #endless, #blissful, #aweinspiring ESCAPES!

HAPPY NEW YEAR,

The ESCAPESEEKER Team

Walking in the footsteps of Sir Ernest Shackleton…100 years later.

Tags: Adventure Travel, Antarctica, Awestruck by Antarctica, Coldest Continent on Earth, Enriching Travel Experiences, ESCAPESEEKER, ESCAPESEEKER Travel Series, Expedition, King Penguins, Mel Gee Henderson, Mind-Expanding Travel, My 7th Continent, One Ocean Expeditions, Roie Galitz Photographer, Sir Ernest Shackleton, South Georgia Island, Tabular Icebergs, The Great White Continent, Ushuaia, Voyage, Windiest Continent on Earth
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Posts Tagged ‘Adventure Travel’

Story by Mel Gee Henderson

What is Wat and What does it all mean?

SO MUCH TO LEARN…SO LITTLE TIME.

If you go to Angkor Wat, request a guide who knows the Temples like the back of his hand! Enter Cambodian Ben Bond.

Our Home Away from Home: An Oasis in the Heart of Siem Reap

Mel aka the ESCAPESEEKER

THE MEKONG RIVER…The artery that led us on our hearts’ life-long mission…to trace where our fathers once walked in time of war…we now walk in time of peace.

THIS IS OUR STORY.

Prologue: Part 1

My Mission

Part 2: Enter… Maynhia Yang Stott

How It All Began

Thus, the stage is now set for two friends to accomplish two distinct missions. Yet, both reasons for their journey are actually similarly tied; we both seek to understand our father’s past–a past that has played such an integral part in shaping our most formative years.

Laos, a foreign name and an even more foreign land for a little girl who escaped the country as a two-year old toddler.

In her own words…

First Sighting of the Mekong River: We fly to Laos’ Paksi Airport, and travel by car to Champasak. Our Laos base of exploration–The River Resort, on the emerald banks of the Mekong River, Champasak Province.

To understand the present, you must first study the past…

#amazingasia Mekong River Voyage of Discovery… to be continued…Next Stop, The Splendor of Siem Reap!

BY TRAIN, BY PLANE, BY BOATS, OR ANYTHING THAT FLOATS; ON FOOT, ON WHEELS, AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN, MY ESCAPESEEKER ADVANCE RESEARCH TEAM ENTHUSIASTICALLY SAID ‘YES’ TO EVERY EPIC ADVENTURE!

First stop: Hello Kangaroo Island

Travel Alert: There is no public transport on Kangaroo Island

Second Stop: Alluring Adelaide: Artistry by Design

Why visit Adelaide?

Did you know no convicts were transported here?

#intheirownwords…

#envision. #explore. #embrace.

Spring has sprung. And, nowhere is this more evident than in the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Amsterdam, here we come!

Introducing my ESCAPESEEKER Team to the Art of River Cruising

A bit of background: My ESCAPESEEKER Advisory Team

So when we’re not engaged in our extensive grand-parenting duties, we are conducting our ESCAPESEEKER advance research, and yes, the destination and experiences need to be simply amazing to make our time away from our families worth every second.

In figuring out which of the plethora of river cruising options we wanted to try, one in particular stood out from all the rest: AmaWaterways’ AmaPrima Tulip Cruise! After all it’s Spring time and we were advised everything is blooming in the Kingdom of the Netherlands!

Why AmaWaterways? It’s more than just about the destination–AmaWaterways is all about the complete journey.

There’s nothing like walking and getting up close and personal to quickly orient yourself to the rhythm of the city.

AmaWaterways’ AmaPrima…River vessels are not created equal

Our Sweet Suite

Feasting our way through the Kingdom of the Netherlands…tough assignment right?

AmaWaterways offers an array of dining options for your culinary enjoyment. Enjoy Chaîne des Rôtisseurs culinary creations in the main dining room, or in the Chef’s Table restaurant with its own private chef.

Burning calories with mind-expanding excursions

We cruised the Ijsselmeer towards Volendam, enjoying a late afternoon tour of Volendam Harbor.

We finished off our tour with a brief visit to the shoreline at Volendam. If there’s one thing you absolutely must try, it’s the tiny, dollar size Dutch pancakes. It is served with fresh whipped cream…to die for…I kid you not!

Fast forward, present day, I’m reviewing our windmill photos, and I think they convey one clear, simple message: “Hello from Holland!”

Keukenhof is open annually from mid-March to mid-May. The best time to view the tulips is around mid-April, depending on the weather.

In the 19th century, the Baron and Baroness Van Pallandt assigned the landscape architect Jan David Zocher and his son Louis Paul Zocher, who had also worked on the Vondelpark, to design the grounds around the castle.

All previous photos I had seen just cannot compare to seeing it in person, up close and personal!

And, Amsterdam wouldn’t be Amsterdam without the tourist appeal for the other eclectic side: Yes, you’ll also find the Sex, Erotic, Hash, or Torture museums.

My entire team realized that one week in Amsterdam alone is necessary, no matter your taste in art, to dedicate and explore the incredible museum offerings.

A Few Parting Words From Our Entire Team…

“Cruising is such a tremendous way to make new friends, and connect with dear ones too. The AmaPrima’s size made making new friends so easy.”~ Mel Gee Henderson

“I never expected that we would be dipping into AmaPrima’s pool in the early days of Spring in the Netherlands! It was wonderful after our bike rides!”

~ Peg Whisler Jones

“Absolutely fantastic boat, fantastic trip with fantastic friends for a fantastic experience. THANK YOU. again.” ~ Jim Jones

“The AmaPrima exceeded my expectations…I’m definitely a River Cruise convert! By the way, if you’re an avid biker, here’s a terrific biking map for Amsterdam that will come in handy! You’ll feel like a native Amsterdammer by the time you’re finished!” ~ Roy A. Henderson

BEFORE WE DELVE INTO THE PRESENT…WE MUST KNOW SOMETHING OF ITS PAST

THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

When To Go

Cash Is Still King

The Argentine Sun Sizzles

EMBRACING ARGENTINA…Postcards from #beautifulbuenosaires

THAT EXACT MOMENT WHEN YOUR GRACIOUS GUIDE BECOMES MORE LIKE FAMILY

In his own words…

[Image captured by Mel Gee Henderson]

Our Adventure Continues…

One-hundred years later, against all odds, my ESCAPESEEKER team and I find ourselves miraculously stepping onto the same continent that drew one of the world’s greatest explorer, Sir Ernest Shackleton.

How does one prepare for an expedition to ANTARCTICA?

January 1, 2016 ~ Happy New Year!

Wow, this is definitely a New Years Day we will never forget!

Image captured by Mel Gee Henderson

[Above Images captured by Israel-based photographer, Roie Galitz, http://www.roiegalitz.com/]