Buenos Aires, Argentina ~ I’ve been devoting a lot of ink these past few weeks on our One Ocean Expeditions Antarctic Adventure, which originated from the most southern city of Argentina [Ushuaia], which we accessed via the country’s vibrant Capital of Buenos Aires. Since everyone traveling to any region of Argentina passes through its gateway capital, it’s time for me to pause from my Antarctic wonderment and shine some light on one of South America’s most famous stars. #buenosaires!
BEFORE WE DELVE INTO THE PRESENT…WE MUST KNOW SOMETHING OF ITS PAST
The year–1808. Buenos Aires makes a final push for its independence from Spain and the town council in Buenos Aires cuts ties two years later in 1810. This move fueled further development of Argentina and its unique culture. Meanwhile across the Atlantic, Europe’s industrialization was booming, opening the doors for Buenos Aires to become one of the world’s leading explorers of agricultural products. It was at this time that a great deal of wealth was amassed in the capital, paving the way for residences modeled after French chateaux. It wasn’t too long before Buenos Aires aristocrats transformed the city into the “Paris of South America.”
La Mansión symbolizes the love story of Félix de Álzaga Unzué – dashing heir to a vast South American ranching fortune – who built the masterpiece as a wedding gift for his young bride, Elena Peña Unzué.
A Beaux Arts landmark set on the grounds of the Four Seasons, La Mansión evokes a time when Buenos Aires was referred to as the “Paris of South America” — a city obsessed with French culture, fashion and architecture. Now hailed as one of Argentina’s finest residences from this time period, La Mansión offers seven one-of-a-kind suites, each affording a unique opportunity to live the city’s history first-hand.
In the early 20th century, Buenos Aires marked the centenary of its first declaration of independence by building a subway system and wide avenues, once again inspired by the French capital–Paris.
Avenida 9 de Julio in downtown Buenos Aires is no ordinary avenue. Nine lanes wide, with gardens and beautifully manicured medians between the opposing flow of traffic, it is recognized as the widest street in the world! Only those with a quick pace and long strides will be lucky to get to the other side before the intersection’s traffic lights changes. A pedestrian crossing this street usually requires a few extra minutes, and two to three traffic light rotations. 9 de Julio Avenida is only one kilometer long, but 110 meters wide.
The Porteños, as the people of Buenos Aires are called, are proud of their city, and rightly so. It boasts some of the best dining–especially if you’re a fan of tender beef–as we discovered it’s a city staple! The shopping, the entertainment, the museums, and of course the TANGO for which the city is world-renowned, all combined have earned Buenos Aires its world class status.
THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
When To Go
First, remember, that summer in the northern hemisphere is winter in the southern hemisphere. That translates to Buenos Aires’ winter is from July to September. During this time, the temperature is chilly, but never below freezing. Summer is from December to March at which time its humidity and temperatures can rise to uncomfortable levels. Spring is from September to December, and autumn is from April to June–these are the two seasons most idyllic for exploring the city. The temperatures are mild, and you’re in the off-peak tourist season too–that is until the world reads my story!
Cash Is Still King
It is important to have cash on you at all times in Buenos Aires as credit cards are accepted in some places but NOT everywhere. Generally, top restaurants, hotels, and stores will accept credit cards. But many will only allow it on purchases over 50 pesos.
The Argentine Sun Sizzles
May I recommend that you bring at least two sets of sunglasses, a nice handy supply of sun block, and your favorite hat or two to protect you from the sizzling hot Argentine sun.
You’ll blend in nicely with all the stylish locals too. The people of Buenos Aires are naturally stylish and trendy but still manage to be wonderfully casual about it all. Feel free to bring your favorite fashionable threads as long as they’re comfy for walking and oodles of sightseeing. Warning: I would leave the expensive jewelry at home so as not to be an open enticement for sly street thieves.
However, should you forget anything at home, no worries. Buenos Aires provides a plethora of shopping opportunities!
Retail Therapy can be found at San Telmo Market, Calle Murillo, Palermo, Galerias Pacifico, and Recoleta.
The Feria de San Telmo is one of the most popular activities in Buenos Aires on Sundays. Artisans sell their beautiful handmade goods, and you’ll also find fabulous antiques, art, and delicious local fare. The market spans several blocks so wear good walking shoes. Street performers and tango dancers liven things up along the way. For more info, go to feriadesantelmo.com
Calle Murillo in Villa Crespo is the place to be if you’re in the market for leather goods–bags, belts and jackets are plentiful. Many of the items can be made to measure, so they’re a worthwhile investment. Negotiating is acceptable. But be aware that the leather items sold in this area is significantly cheaper than anywhere else in the city. The locals advised that Murillo 666 is known as one of the best stores with the most reasonable prices for leather goods on Calle Murillo.
The Palermo district of Buenos Aires, also known as Palermo Soho, is a mecca for design. There are plenty of unique specialty shops to please the discerning shopper.
Galerías Pacífico, a short walk from our Four Seasons Hotel, proved to be a convenient Mall to pick up a few items to refresh our summer wardrobe, especially since we had arrived from Antarctica–with an entirely different temperature range. The Mall is lined with high-end boutiques. But if you’re not inclined to pay the high prices, fear not, there’s a Zara anchored at the end of the Mall.
The Recoleta area of Buenos Aires is dotted with luxurious homes and hotels, and is one of the most affluent neighborhoods in the city.
But there’s an area that caught our interest even more: The Recoleta Cemetery, a must-see spot, for the closest thing I’ve seen like it is the Père Lachaise Cemetery, the largest cemetery in Paris, and one of the most famous cemeteries in the world. Well, the Recoleta Cemetery, the resting place of many wealthy (as demonstrated by their grand, elaborate, marbled tombstones) and famous Argentineans including Eva [Evita] Peron, definitely competes. Evita’s tomb is continually covered in flowers and letters from her fans who travel far and wide to pay their respects. To prevent her body from being stolen, as it had been many times by the various military governments installed after her husband’s fall from grace in 1955, she was finally buried in a concrete vault 8.1m (27 ft.) underground in 1976.
Weather permitting, free English-language tours are held every Tuesday and Thursday at 11am. Ask for information at the small office with the sign reading JUNIN 1790, between the cemetery gate and the church. The door is sometimes closed and locked during office hours, but you can still peek into the windows and talk to the staff, particularly Marta Granja, who speaks English. If you can’t take a tour or want to explore on your own, cemetery maps are also for sale at the gate, with proceeds going to the Friends of Recoleta Cemetery, a private group that helps with upkeep.
Once the garden of the adjoining church, the cemetery was created in 1822 and is among the oldest in the city. You can spend hours here wandering the grounds that cover 4 city blocks, full of tombs adorned with works by local and international sculptors. More than 6,400 mausoleums form an architectural free-for-all, including Greek temples and pyramids. Many other rich or famous Argentines are buried here as well, including a number of Argentine presidents whose tomb names you’ll recognize because they match some of the streets of the city. The newest presidential tomb is that of Raúl Ricardo Alfonsín, who died in 2009 and was the first president elected when the 1976-82 military dictatorship ended.
Most tourists who come here visit only Evita’s tomb, but among the many others, two are worth singling out and should not be missed. One is the tomb of the Paz family, who owned the newspaper La Prensa, as well as the palatial building on Plaza San Martín now known as the Círculo Militar. It is an enormous black stone structure covered with white marble angels in turn-of-the-20th-century dress. The angels seem to soar to the heavens, lifting the spirit of those inside with their massive wings. The sculptures were all made in Paris and shipped here. Masonic symbols such as anchors and pyramid-like shapes adorn this as well as many other Recoleta tombs.
Another tomb I recommend seeing is that of Rufina Cambaceres, a young woman who was buried alive in the early 1900s. She had perhaps suffered a coma, and a few days after her interment, workers heard screams from the tomb. When it was opened, there were scratches on her face and on the coffin from her attempts to escape. Her mother then built this Art Nouveau masterpiece, which has become a symbol of the cemetery.
Her coffin is a Carrara marble slab, carved with a rose on top, and it sits behind a glass wall, as if her mother wanted to make up for her mistake in burying her and ensure she could see her coffin if she were ever to come back again. The corner of the tomb is adorned by a young girl carved of marble who turns her head to those watching her; she looks as if she is about to break into tears, and her right hand is on the door of her own tomb. Many locals often place delicate sprigs of flowers into her hand. It seems each grave is accompanied with a story of triumph or tragedy–as told by their beloved family, painfully left behind.
EMBRACING ARGENTINA…Postcards from #beautifulbuenosaires
It has been said,“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.” The greatest blessing of being the ESCAPESEEKER is the tremendous, brilliant, inspiring friends I meet wherever I travel. I was thrilled to reunite with Argentine friends, Felix and Sole Bialet whom I first met while on assignment on board @paulgauguincruises m/v Tere Moana in the summer of 2013! Felix and Sole not only welcomed me, but my traveling companions as well. It is as if no time had passed!#tequieroargentina #ifeelblessed Honestly, the #world is full of #engaging, #kind #friends just waiting to be met! — with Felix Bialet and Sole Bialet at Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires.
Just hanging out with the #whoswho of #argentina I learned so much from our brilliant @metropolitantouring Argentina #guide Andrea! Thank you for our #mindexpanding day Andrea, and for teaching us about #argentinaslegends:#carlosgardel #alfonsinastorni and #jorgeluisborges #tequieroargentina — at Gran Cafe Tortoni. 
THAT EXACT MOMENT WHEN YOUR GRACIOUS GUIDE BECOMES MORE LIKE FAMILY
Maybe it was because we were standing inside Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral–an architectural masterpiece where former Archbishop Jorge Mario Bergoglio of Buenos Aires listened to many in his parish bear their souls. But we never realized we were about to have one of the most moving experiences of our Argentine journey. Part way through our tour of this beautiful Cathedral, Andrea began to tell us her story.
Andrea has a genetic propensity to cancer and has been fighting cancer most of her life. If that was not enough of a burden, she lost her only brother when he died in the war with Britain over the Falkland Islands. Shortly later, her husband and only child were killed in an automobile accident in which she too was seriously injured. She laid despondent in the hospital for weeks. She wanted to end her life and asked her father for help. Her dad said he would help but since Andrea was his only surviving child he said would end his life the day after she took her life. (She said her dad was really smart.) She decided she could not commit suicide under those circumstances.
Andrea left the hospital not knowing what to do. She then went to the Cathedral for Confession and asked the priest for help. The priest said he could not counsel her in the confessional but she should return later that day and give her name to an assistant at the Cathedral. That was the beginning of many months of weekly counseling sessions with the priest whose name she did not know. She later learned her counselor was Jorge Mario Bergoglio, the Archbishop of Buenos Aires.
Andrea recovered her mental health but is still fighting cancer. She is a bright, cheerful guide. Recently while waiting for a medical appointment she received a call on her cell phone. It was her counselor, Pope Francis I, checking up on her!! After finding that Andrea was okay, Pope Francis asked her to pray for him. Her story is a true testament of the marvelous, compassionate character of Pope Francis I. No matter where they reside, they will always be the parish priests caring for the Children of God. We were all in tears as we huddled around this beautiful soul–our extraordinary guide, Andrea! From that moment on, we all felt like one big family, bearing each other up. Life is filled with its unpredictable challenges, and when we support one another, we are no longer strangers, but members of a caring circle of #humanKIND! [Photo of Pope Francis captured by yours truly, the ESCAPESEEKER during my 2013 assignment at the Vatican.]
It is such a #joy teaming this #epic #antarctica #argentina @escapeseeker assignment with Roy Henderson, Mary McGill, and John Hempelmann! Savoring @fsbuenosaires hospitality and exploring this vibrant city before we move on to our final stop: #iguazu #falls …another world’s wonder awaits us! I #love my @escapeseeker team! Te quiero #argentina — at Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires.
WHERE TO STAY
Our two top pics:
1) The Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires with its unrivaled views of the vibrant Argentine Capital.
This is how @fsbuenosaires greets their very happy guests, yours truly the @escapeseeker included! #delicious #argentina …my team and I were fueled every morning for a full day of #buenosaires #exploration! Thank you @fsbuenosaires #tequieroargentina — at Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires.
2) The Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Buenos Aires is decorated with antique Persian and contemporary carpets over wood floors, silk curtains and crystal chandeliers. It’s underground Art Gallery showcases renowned contemporary artists rotating every two months, as well as a permanent collection of original contemporary fine art on display throughout the hotel. I love the Palacio’s magnificent garden that sits like an elegant sanctuary, an oasis in the middle of the city.
At the Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, dining is also a work of art!
Buenos Aires is truly a #worldclass capital with something for everyone…including those of us who have wished to learn how to TANGO all our lives! I need to practice a bit more before I share my tango steps. But, I’ve definitely been bitten by the Tango bug…and the only cure is to return to Buenos Aires and dance with the native pros! What a graceful way to wrap up a beautiful stay in Buenos Aires!
We will be returning in October, 2016 with our entire ESCAPESEEKER film crew. I’ve intentionally left out additional extraordinary activities we engaged in–after all, we have to reserve some surprise elements for our extremely talented cinematographer!
Here’s to #blissful, #endless, #amazing #escapes…and remember, no matter where you go, be the kindest person you know.
With love and gratitude to all who make being the ESCAPESEEKER a continued series of “Pinch me moments”…
Mel
PS: Stay tuned for my next report…destination? Iguazu Falls!
*****
To access our outstanding native guides contact: mbrown-zavaleta@
To book our tremendous professional TANGO instructors: Rachel Makow <rachelmakow@yahoo.com>
