Posts Tagged ‘Adventure’

Mekong River Voyage of Discovery: Connecting Past and Present

Tuesday, January 23rd, 2018

THE MEKONG RIVER…The artery that led us on our hearts’ life-long mission…to trace where our fathers once walked in time of war…we now walk in time of peace.

“In all of us there is a hunger, marrow-deep, to know our heritage- to know who we are and where we have come from. Without this enriching knowledge, there is a hollow yearning. No matter what our attainments in life, there is still a vacuum, an emptiness, and the most disquieting loneliness. ” ~ Alex Haley, author of Roots, whom I had the privilege and honor of working with in the early 90’s impressed upon me the importance of knowing who we are, by researching the lives of those who bravely paved the path before us. 

 

THIS IS OUR STORY.

 

By Mel Gee Henderson
with Maynhia Yang Stott
Photography by ESCAPESEEKER,
unless otherwise indicated

Prologue: Part 1

A.S. Peapealalo“Your Dad, Sgt. Major Peppy saved my life!” This was the remarkable sentiments expressed by soldier upon soldier as they shook my hand during my father’s packed Memorial Service. For you see, my father, a U.S. Marine whose military career spanned more than three decades, volunteered for deployment during the Vietnam conflict, not once, twice, or three times, but five!  It only seems natural then that he would have had occasions to save equally as many lives.
Back home, during my father’s absence, my mother served as CEO of our home.  My elder brother was in his prime (sometimes rather wild)  teen years; while I was still in the thick of my formative elementary school phase. My mother worked full time in order to stay sane and keep her mind off the Vietnam War fueled further by nightly news reports of the conflict only escalating. We, along with other military families in our Oceanside, California neighborhood learned to cope with our soldiers’ absence.  But underneath the calm exterior, even as a child, I knew full well that everyone dreaded the mere sight of the Chaplain’s black sedan slowly cruising our streets, looking for the designated address.  It only meant one thing: another life had been lost to the Vietnam War.
 

My Mission

Fast forward, 42 years after the Fall of Saigon, I am now granted the opportunity to walk the very same Asian soil my father walked.  The stark difference:  He walked as a soldier through enemy-thick jungles in sweltering heat, and marched with boots laced with leeches across verdant rice [mine] fields in war-ravaged Vietnam; I, however, now walk in time of peace.  I see a country that bears only a small resemblance to the images that lit up our TV sets, accompanied with disturbing, grueling reports about a war that few understood.  I feel compelled to learn all that I can about this Southeast Asia region that occupied a major chunk of my father’s life, and impacted our entire family…a familiar story that was repeated in homes across America’s vast landscape.
  

Part 2: Enter… Maynhia Yang Stott

 


​Maynhia with ESCAPESEEKER during our “Astonishing Australia” film shoot

How It All Began

In mid-October of 2017, I enjoyed a Chinese lunch with one of our most ardent ESCAPESEEKER Travel Series supporters who had accompanied our film crew on an epic, month-long Australia filming assignment in August of 2017. Her name:  Maynhia Yang Stott, a Hmong Laotian-French-American. She began to recall the story of how her family narrowly escaped from Communist-ruled Laos after the Fall of Saigon. As she spoke, I realized for the first time, the depth of how far this young entrepreneurial woman had come from that singular moment that her  2-year old self had literally been plucked from the grip of an extremely difficult and dangerous existence.  She looked me right in the eyes, and pointedly expressed,  “Mel, I want to go back to Laos, and learn more about my family’s past, and more importantly, I want to find a way to give back and help the Laotian people.  I want to improve the lives of impoverished children, who like me, need a chance for a better life.  Will you help me?  Remember, I was only 2 years old when I left. It is so foreign to me, and I know little about how to navigate that part of the world.”After giving it a great deal of thought, I suggested to her, “If we’re going to go back and learn more about your family’s heritage, then we must also explore the other countries that have impacted Laos history–the countries that make up Indochina:  Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam.  Throughout its history, the horror of wars that impacted one, impacted all three.  And, the best mode of travel since we are both unfamiliar with this part of Asia, I think we should consider joining the AmaWaterways‘ River vessel, the AmaDara, designed specifically to navigate the Mekong River and its complex arteries which embarks from a tiny port–a 5 hour drive from Siem Reap, Cambodia, and winds through the Mekong River until it reaches its final destination:  Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.”

Maynhia agreed. But before we join the AmaDara River Cruise Voyage, we shall first travel to the land of her roots, Laos, officially known as Lao People’s Democratic Republic.

The AmaDara, our chosen vessel for exploring the Mekong River and its tributaries.

The AmaDara, our chosen vessel for exploring the Mekong River and its tributaries.

Map

Thus, the stage is now set for two friends to accomplish two distinct missions. Yet, both reasons for their journey are actually similarly tied; we both seek to understand our father’s past–a past that has played such an integral part in shaping our most formative years. 
To understand Maynhia’s motivations to return to Laos, you must first gain a glimpse into her family’s vivid past. 
Laos, a foreign name and an even more foreign land for a little girl who escaped the country as a two-year old toddler.

In her own words… 

My mother describes vividly how our family left Laos when the Americans pulled out of the Vietnam War. 

Xiang Khouang Deputy Governor Youa Pao Yang

Xiang Khouang Deputy Governor Youa Pao Yang

Because my Father,  Xiang Khouang Deputy Governor Youa Pao Yang, was a high Hmong official, and the first recognized Hmong Lao government official (along with General Vang Pao), who fought along side the Americans, his life was in real danger. In May 1975 the Americans sent choppers to evacuate the Hmong officials from Long Tieng. Choppers carried out air lift missions to Long Tieng for three days. Long Tieng was a Laotian military base located in Xiangkhouang Province.

During the Laotian Civil War, it served as a town and airbase operated by the Central Intelligence Agency of the United States. At that time my family lived in Ban Naso, a little village where we took refuge for four years after the capital seat of Xiangkhouang, Satong fell under the communist regime.

I was born in Ban Naso. We arrived in Long Tieng the second day after an arduous five hours drive. For two days my family tried to board with no success; the airport was crowded with people. When the helicopters arrived, they would rush and scramble to get on. The soldiers in charge of helping us couldn’t control the crowd. My mom was with child. She was holding a suitcase and carrying me on her back with a nyaaj, a traditional baby cloth carrier. I had just turned two years old. My dad was holding my older brothers’ hands. Kou was six, and Yi was four.  My sister Bao who was eight was old enough to walk by herself. My mom says this time was the scariest time of her life. She wasn’t scared of the enemy as much as she was of the crowd of people. They were so ruthless. It seemed that no one cared about anyone. Prior to the helicopters coming, the Americans told the people that they will only send helicopters to evacuate the officials and that the people were safe from the Viet communist since the communist will only punish or kill the officials.

The first day, the people let the officials board but like anywhere in times of war, fears and doubt creep into the peole’s mind and chaos acrrues. The second day, when we arrived the airport was crowded with people fighting to get on board the choppers. No one listened to the Americans anymore. It was survival of the fittest.

Whenever I doubt if I possess the courage and strength to undertake a new challenge, even a foreign venture, I think of my Mother and the tremendous strength and resolve she demonstrated to do what was necessary to save our family and begin a new life, I question it no more. Our family overcame huge financial, cultural, language obstacles to thrive in France, and ultimately settling in America as citizens. We've come so far since that terrifying river crossing. Today, my mother still stands at the head of our family, reminding us that there's nothing we cannot conquer. Where do I get my ability to easily adapt to any situation? Her name is By Ly Yang, and she is my Mother.

Whenever I doubt if I possess the courage and strength to undertake a new challenge, even a foreign venture, I think of my Mother and the tremendous strength and resolve she demonstrated to do what was necessary to save our family and begin a new life, I question it no more.
Our family overcame huge financial, cultural, language obstacles to thrive in France, and ultimately settling in America as citizens. We’ve come so far since that terrifying river crossing.
Today, my mother still stands at the head of our family, reminding us that there’s nothing we cannot conquer.
Where do I get my ability to easily adapt to any situation? Her name is By Ly Yang, and she is my Mother.

 

After two days of trying to board to no avail, my mom suggested that my dad leave for Thailand by himself and she and the children will stay behind with my grand mother since his life was in imminent danger and ours was not. My dad refused to let us stay, and said he will find a way. We hired a taxi to drive us to Vientiane– an 8-hours drive through a small dirt road. It was just our little family. When we left Naso my dad told his body guards to go home and take their family to safety. Once in Vientiane, my dad’s 3-5 body guards  who were already there at our house, refused to let him go out since the city was already occupied by the communist. After three days they finally found a boat from a Thai man who agreed to help us. The body guards snucked us out of the city to the river bank and we finally crossed the Mekong river. They placed us in a boat and watched us cross, hidden from the river bank. When we reached the other side which was the city of Nong Khai, they returned to our house and gathered their families to make the same crossing we had just made. All of them made it safely across.

Fast forward–they now reside in the United States, or in France. Because my dad worked with the French government most of his life he chose to emigrate to France. We lived there for 14 years. This is my Dad in his civilian attire, thriving in his newfound, conflict-free, adopted country.facebook_1513140648467

After my father’s passing we moved to the United States to be reunited with my mom’s family. I was born in April of 1973. If you ask my mom, she will say that I was born when “we were planting.” That’s how the Hmong remember when their children were born. One would say “you were born just during the rice harvest because I remember that I couldn’t help since I was with child.” Another one would say, “you were born the year our dad passed away, at the beginning of the planting season. That year we didn’t farm much because we didn’t have a dad to help us anymore. You uncles were young so we didn’t have any men muscle to help us till the land. Farming was very small from then on, until your uncles were big enough to clear trees for a new farm land.”

As you can see everything was based on the agriculture calendar. It is bitter sweet to finally be in Laos. It’s a beautiful country. I love it already. I can imagine living here myself surrounded by the emerald forests, the majestic mountains, the deep valleys, and narrow roads; the hillside farmlands caressing the mighty Mekong River. The sad part is that we’re not able to visit the actual places where our family lived. They say the road to Sathon is too dangerous, and that we are likely to get mugged. They say that Long Tieng is now a closed base.  And, Ban Naso, where I was born, is now under an artificial lake. I hope to come back soon with my family.  Perhaps I can gather three  generations to return to Laos–to recall, to learn, and to pass on our family’s legacy. We will always be grateful for the sacrifices of our parents, for their courage in leaving their homeland, and the resilience to start over in a total foreign country with a vastly different culture. Most importantly, our parents stressed the importance of making a success of our lives so that someday, should we return to Laos, we can give back. This is the reason I have journeyed to Laos. It is my own personal journey of discovery, to learn more about who I am. And, equally important,  it’s time for me to find a way to give back.  ~ Maynhia Yang Stott

Lovely Laos...Gives whole new meaning to "A River Runs Through It."

Lovely Laos…Gives whole new meaning to “A River Runs Through It.”

First Sighting of the Mekong River: We fly to Laos’ Paksi Airport, and travel by car to Champasak.  Our Laos base of exploration–The River Resort, on the emerald banks of the Mekong River,  Champasak Province.

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The bamboo-lined entrance to The River Resort revealed an organized, naturally sculpted landscape captured in the image below, reflective of the fertile soil, and abundant flora along Mekong River’s edge.

IMG_3627 (1) [Photo Credit: The River Resort]

River Resort VillasThe minute we stepped into our clean, bright, simple, yet well-appointed villas, it’s clear that the architects and landscape artists of The River Resort put a great deal of thought behind its Southeast Asia design.

 After our long, multi-transpacific asiatic flights, we easily sunk into a deep slumber, serenaded by the sounds of the Mekong River’s rippling currents.

At dawn, I awoke to this glorious sight! The tiny silhouette of a Laotian fisherman in his boat already hard at work before sunrise.

Mekong from the River Resort

Fully energized after our hearty River Resort buffet breakfast, we spent the early morning learning more about The River Resort and making new friends with several of the local guests.  What an eye opener. We learned that many of the guests live in nearby Paksi, and travel to The River Resort for weekend get-a-ways because “it’s beautiful and they serve the best food in all of Champasak!”  By day’s end, after exploring and photographing the resort, and even receiving the most jet lag-curing massage from the Resort’s Spa therapist,  I eagerly created the following collage from the images I captured, accompanied by the following entry from my journal:

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Our Sunday was spent exploring our Laos #homeawayfromhome, The River Resort,  savoring the Chef’s unique culinary offerings, and making brand new friends, like 4-year old, Lin [pictured above in my Sunday collage] who can speak Lao, English and Chinese! Her beautiful Mama, Kitar also speaks beautiful English. Kitar says she learned to speak via the internet! How brilliant is that?#splendidsundaysentiments…After just two days, this is what we know: The beautiful Laotians we have met are warm, friendly, and oh so kind-hearted.

22885795_10156744730818032_2819682524662395027_nIt’s 1:08 a.m. on Monday morning and I’m too excited to sleep! I can’t wait for the sunrise so our adventures can continue. We’re heading towards the mountains to experience a plethora of waterfalls, and you know how I am when it comes to water, water, water! Have a beautiful week everyone, and remember, no matter where you go, be the kindest person you know. Honestly, the world is full of engaging friends, just waiting to be met. So…SMILE…and I bet you’ll make a new friend or two this week!  May we all strive to make the world a more loving place by learning to understand one another, and savoring cultures different from our own. You know what you’ll discover once you get to know one another? Beyond the differing language and religious faiths, the national attire, and really spicy foods, we’re really not that different after all. We all need to know that our lives matter…and we’re all striving to create meaningful, joyful lives infused with love by family and friends.  Goodnight for now, from#lovelylaos and The River Resort

We  awaken to such a flawless view of the mesmerizing Mekong River from our suite at The River Resort rested and ready yet again for another Champasak Province adventure.  And, the best part, Maynhia and I were able to share our adventures with our brand new friend whom we only met during our lunch at the Resort! She’s a Filipina (via Cyprus and Pakse, Laos that is), and we instantly became friends. It is as if we’ve known her forever. Her husband welcomed us to their beautiful home upon our return, and treated us to the most fabulous Italian dinner! Indeed, my ESCAPESEEKER theory rings true once again:  #theworldisfullofengagingfriendsjustwaitingtobemet

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To understand the present, you must first study the past…
Temple (1)

  WAt PhuWat Phu (meaning ‘mountain temple’), is situated on a hillside and offers stunning views over the surrounding land and Mekong River. Those who appreciate art and history will be amazed by the magnificent workmanship in this ruined Khmer temple complex in the form of temple pillars, barays, lintels, pediments, terrace, courtyard, walls, doorways, sanctuary, shrine, library and palaces. There is also a natural spring that is believed by locals to emit holy water. Older than the great temple complex at Angkor Wat in Cambodia, Wat Phu was named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2002.

Wat Phu (Vat Phou) is opened year round. It is located in Pakse, the main city of Champasack Province in southwestern Laos.  Visitors can travel to Wat Phu from Pakse via land or by boat along the Mekong River.

23032862_10156750438458032_5541436916855339063_nThis “Tuk Tuk” was our preferred land transportation for our temple visits. By the way, I didn’t really drive it. Best to hire a local driver who really knows his way around. Your task will be merely to wave to all the friendly locals because it will quickly become apparent that your driver knows everyone in town!

If you really want to get to know a place, get to know the locals. Respectfully see, feel, hear, taste, embrace their country, and their culture through their eyes! I promise, they will welcome you with open arms.

If you really want to get to know a place, get to know the locals.
Respectfully see, feel, hear, taste, embrace their country, and their culture through their eyes!
I promise, they will welcome you with open arms.

Our stay went by all too fast, and we knew we were going to have a really tough time saying goodbye to our new Lao friends, not to mention our delicious feast prepared by their French Chef, who thoroughly enjoyed conversing with Maynhia in her perfect French. Our private sunset cruise on the Mekong River with The River Resort Champasak  multi-tasking, multi-skilled team was exceptional. Honestly, their amazing native staff know the Mekong like the back of their hands, having grown up along the River. And, they seem to be able to do it all, wherever their skills are needed, and do so with a SMILE! Their pride in being part of “The River Resort family” is reflected in everything they do, and especially in how they extend the VIP treatment to all the guest!  We sure picked the perfect place for Maynhia to get a beautiful re-introduction into the land of her native roots:  LOVELY LAOS already has Maynhia and this ESCAPESEEKER longing to return!

#amazingasia Mekong River Voyage of Discovery… to be continued…Next Stop, The Splendor of Siem Reap!

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Angkor Wat, Cambodia at sunrise is absolutely worth the 4 a.m. wake-up call. Thanks to our guide extraordinaire, Ben Bond, we were able to document our most amazing visit to the largest and oldest religious monument in the world, which has become a must-see destination in Asia. Now, the temple is part of Angkor World Heritage Site and is considered one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The name– Angkor Wat means “Temple City” in Khmer.  Ben advised us exactly where to stand to capture the very best images, and provided one mind-expanding, scholarly narration about each Temple we visited. It is easy to see he is absolutely passionate about his work, and so very proud for the opportunity to share his country’s most famous treasures. Please stay tuned tomorrow when ESCAPESEEKER brings you Part 3: Cambodia…There’s so much more than meets the eye! 

We can’t wait to show you where we stayed during our Siem Reap exploration. Talk about an absolutely luxurious “oasis” right smack in the heart of Siem Reap splendor. Just a short 10 minutes away from the famous ancient temples, we found French colonial elegance thriving amidst the manicured gardens of Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort!

Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf and Spa Resort

 

Oh, less I forget, we will also introduce you to a boatload of AmaWaterways’ “AmaZing” guests who share our insatiable wanderlust, many of whom we now count amongst our roster of global, brilliant friends.  My ESCAPESEEKERisms (things I personally believe to be true) clearly applies here:  If you wish to meet amazing friends, engage in amazing things. Yes, like traveling and discovering the sheer majesty of our wondrous world!

"Amazing Journeys" is an international travel program designed for Jewish singles and Jewish adult travelers of all ages. President and founder Malori Asman, brings with her over 30 years of travel industry experience. Her travel experience speaks for itself—she has sailed on more than 100 cruises and has traveled to over 110 countries on seven continents! No wonder we instantly felt like soulmates. The seasoned team of Amazing Journeys plan, implement and personally escort 10-12 trips a year for Jewish singles around the world. We had the good fortune of being on the same AmaDara Mekong River Cruise as Amazing Journeys, and well, it was exactly that: AMAZING!

“Amazing Journeys” is an international travel program designed for Jewish singles and Jewish adult travelers of all ages. President and founder Malori Asman, brings with her over 30 years of travel industry experience. Her travel experience speaks for itself—she has sailed on more than 100 cruises and has traveled to over 110 countries on seven continents! No wonder we instantly felt like soulmates. The seasoned team of
Amazing Journeys plan, implement and personally escort 10-12 trips a year for Jewish singles around the world.
We had the good fortune of being on the same AmaDara Mekong River Cruise as Amazing Journeys, and well, it was exactly that: AMAZING!

[Photo Credit: Amazing Journeys]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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ESCAPESEEKER Team Discovers the Vast Seemingly Endless Richness of Australia

Tuesday, June 20th, 2017

18953535_10154742822112711_1961532902770320287_o (1)Indian Pacific panorama captured by passenger, Ian Quatermass

BY TRAIN, BY PLANE, BY BOATS, OR ANYTHING THAT FLOATS; ON FOOT, ON WHEELS, AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN, MY ESCAPESEEKER ADVANCE RESEARCH TEAM ENTHUSIASTICALLY SAID ‘YES’ TO EVERY EPIC ADVENTURE!

My indefatigable “Astonishing Australia” Advance Research Team is comprised of yours truly, ESCAPESEEKER series scriptwriter/photojournalist/Executive Producer; Roy A. Henderson, Executive Producer/Pilot/Aerial Photographer; Jim Jones, Stills Photographer and Program Advisory Team Member; Peg Whisler Jones, iPhone photog specialist/emphasis-social media [Team, Thank you for making every assignment a joyful experience.]
Qantas, Australia's flagship airline--you'll feel that signature Aussie hospitality the minute you board.

Qantas, Australia’s flagship airline–you’ll feel that undeniable Aussie hospitality the minute you board.

We embarked on our Sailaway Sunset Sail at Port Douglas, Queensland, and the goosebumps begin the minute you realize, I'm headed to the Great Barrier Reef!

We embarked on our Sailaway Sunset Sail at Port Douglas, Queensland, and the goosebumps begin the minute you realize, I’m headed to the iconic Great Barrier Reef (on the World Heritage List).

We said goodbye to the big city life and stepped back in time when riverboat trade only happened along the Murray River when this beautiful 'Princess' moved between small town ports.

We said goodbye to the big city life and stepped back in time when riverboat trade only happened along the Murray River when this beautiful ‘Princess’ moved between small town ports.

Watching the sun rise slowly peek through the mountain tops as we sailed high above the fertile Mareeba Valley with Hot Air Balloon Cairns made the 3:55 a.m. pick up time absolutely worth it!

Watching the sun rise slowly peek through the mountain tops as we sailed high above the fertile Mareeba Valley with Hot Air Balloon Cairns made the rather painful 3:55 a.m. pick up time absolutely worth it!

They should rename the "Raging Thunder Adventures" "Raging Laughter Adventures" because that's exactly what our footage from our white water rafting trip on the Barron River sounded like! I would do it again in a heartbeat

They should rename the “Raging Thunder Adventures” “Raging Laughter Adventures” because that’s exactly what our footage from our white water rafting trip on the Barron River sounded like! I would do it again in a heartbeat

Keeping Rottness Island Green requires you explore with a darling electric car, or on foot, or our favorite form--a bicycle!

Keeping Rottness Island Green requires we explore with a darling electric car, or on foot, or our favorite form–a bicycle!

How can we not accept the challenge to climb the iconic landmark, Sydney Harbor Bridge? If you're looking for a true HIGH--this is an absolute must do! #bestviewofyourlife

How can we not accept the challenge to climb the iconic landmark, Sydney Harbor Bridge? If you’re looking for a true HIGH–this is an absolute must do! #bestviewofyourlife

When your hear "Australia" you immediately think, "Kangaroo" right? So, of course we decide to begin our epic Advance Research assignment on Australia's southern KANGAROO ISLAND with Nikki Redman, the island's legendary native guide! The minute we met her, we knew we were in for a brilliant experience!

When your hear “Australia” you immediately think, “Kangaroo” right? So, of course we decide to begin our epic Advance Research assignment on Australia’s southern KANGAROO ISLAND with Nikki Redman, the island’s legendary native guide! The minute we met her, we knew we were in for a brilliant experience!

Los Angeles, California ~ Ok, I have a confession.  After being in Australia for nearly a month, I’m definitely showing signs of Aussie withdrawal symptoms.  No more morning greeting with “How you goin’?”

No daily infusion of non-stop wit from our many, many, coast to coast, Australian guides who make you beg to ask, “How in the world did you all get to be so much fun?” Their general reply, “We’ve just learned not to take ourselves too seriously!” But seriously, what I’m about to recap for you in the next five minutes of some interesting travel reading (I hope)–is one of the most enjoyable, enriching, and exciting ESCAPESEEKER assignments we have ever undertaken.  So let me not waste any more of your precious seconds, and begin to articulate WHY AUSTRALIA IS ABSOLUTELY WORTH GOING THE DISTANCE (especially for North Americans).

First stop:  Hello Kangaroo Island

KI Map and continent

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After being transported by the SeaLink coach from Adelaide to Cape Jervis through the Fleurieu Peninsula, about 1.30 hours scenic drive, we arrived at the Ferry Terminal, proceeded to check-in, and shortly thereafter boarded the SeaLink Ferry for the 45-minute crossing to Kangaroo Island.  Upon arrival we were met by Kangaroo Island native, and seasoned guide, Nikki Redman, holding up our beautiful frequent sight–the ESCAPESEEKER welcome sign!

After the usual intros, we set off on our first day of Kangaroo Island Odysseys‘ exploration on board a super roomie, luxurious Mercedes 4-wheel drive vehicle, which we would soon discover Nikki handled with total ease as she multi-tasked:  talking in her melodic Aussie accent as she briefed us on everything we ever wanted to know about Kangaroo Island–including all those interesting facts only local insiders know; driving confidently no matter the road conditions as some of the roads are unsealed, and extra care must be taken; and Nikki has this amazing ability to spot wildlife, no matter where they’re hiding–and sometimes, this is while she’s navigating enthusiastically behind the wheel!

Kangaroo Island, Australia’s third-largest island, is 155 km (96 miles long and 55 km (34 miles wide. Located 16 km (10 miles) off the Fleurie Peninsula, the island was the site of South Australia’s first official colonial settlement, established at Reeves Point in 1836. However, the settlement was short-lived, and within just four years had been virtually abandoned. The island was then settled during the remainder of the 19th century as communications improved with the new mainland settlements.

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 Travel Alert: There is no public transport on Kangaroo Island

Visitors must travel on a tour or by car. If you really prefer to focus on having the best wildlife sightings, I highly recommend going the tour route, and if you can, do as my team and I did, and booking a private tour guide.  One outstanding perk with your private tour guide–Nikki prepared some amazing meals for us during our time with her, so delicious we would almost forget that we are actually on a specific work assignment to find the interesting facts, experiences that will fill a future 27-minute episode for our special transcontinental coverage of ESCAPESEEKER: Astonishing Australia.

We've never met a guide who can multi-task like Nikki--talk about #wonderwoman!

I can tell you this in advance–Kangaroo Island doesn’t lack program content.  I can’t share everything we learned, or else you would not have any further reasons to watch the Kangaroo Island episode starring our brilliant, exceptionally fun, and witty guide, Nikki Redman.  But here’s a little teaser you might not already know:  Are you aware that Kangaroo Island is home to well over a million Tammar wallabies? Or that female wallabies actually put their pregnancies on hold if conditions aren’t suitable for the baby joey to be born?

Our first wildlife sighting shortly after arriving at Kangaroo Island: #wondrouswallaby (I couldn't resist the hashtag and alliteration) The name "wallaby" comes from Dharug 'walabi' or 'waliba'. Young wallabies are known as "joeys", like many other marsupials. Adult male wallabies are referred to as bucks, boomers, or jacks. An adult female wallaby is known as a doe, flyer, or jill. A group of wallabies is called a court, mob, or troupe. [Moment captured by ESCAPESEEKER photog, Jim Jones]

Our first wildlife sighting shortly after arriving at Kangaroo Island: #wondrouswallaby (I just couldn’t resist the hashtag and alliteration) The name “wallaby” comes from Dharug ‘walabi’ or ‘waliba’. Young wallabies are known as “joeys”, like many other marsupials. Adult male wallabies are referred to as bucks, boomers, or jacks. An adult female wallaby is known as a doe, flyer, or jill. A group of wallabies is called a court, mob, or troupe. [Photocred: Jim Jones]

Did you also know that the sea lions on Kangaroo Island make the 120 kilometre return journey to the continental shelf looking for food every six days, themselves risking becoming food for hungry Great White Sharks and Orcas?

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Our guide knew so much about Kangaroo Island’s flora and fauna that when Nikki described them in great detail, it was already  like watching a Nature segment on PBS!  The more we discovered about Kangaroo Island’s unique wildlife, and indigenous plants, as well as its stunning geography, also carved out by the forces of Nature–wind, rain, and sea–the more inspired we are to capture the endless beauty of this incredibly pristine, revered island.  It is Australia’s own version of the Galapagos in all its wondrous glory. From Koalas napping peacefully on their native tree branch,  to silhouettes of kangaroos grazing across the meadow at sunset, to pristine beaches that caress a vast panorama of the deep blue Southern Ocean, our multi-Emmy-award winning cinematographer, Evan Zissimopulos is surely going to think he died and went to heaven!

Kangaroo Island has always fascinated me ever since my eldest daughter, Joanna Gee who at 15 was awarded “Science Student of the Year” at her High School and subsequently selected to be part of the People to People International Student Travel Program. Joanna chose to travel to Kangaroo Island to study Marine Biology.  Joanna even made sure she was scuba-certified by her departure date, even if it meant passing her open dives in the frigid winter waters of Flaming Gorge in Utah! Well, fast forward, today Joanna is a Financial Analyst for a major tech company, but to this day, she has never forgotten her amazing time at Kangaroo Island. “Mom, t’s a haven for wildlife.  The air is fresher, the skies are bluer, and the Aussies are just the nicest people on earth.”  On that note, how can I not include Kangaroo Island on our epic #astonishingaustralia special series? Consider it done, Joanna! Thank you for inspiring me all those years ago.  What took me so long?

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 Second Stop:  Alluring Adelaide:  Artistry by Design

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Once our Kangaroo Island Odysseys adventure was completed, we returned to the mainland via SeaLink Ferry, and once again picked up by SeaLink coach and guest by guest returned to our respective Adelaide hotel.

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Our choice–the redesigned, and meticulously preserved,  luxurious 5-star Mayfair Hotel. 

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Wait until you sink your tired body  into their luxuriously famous king size bed after a long day of exploration.  We’ve never felt anything like it, and we understand the beds are manufactured right in Adelaide. Honestly, I slept like a baby!

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Adelaide’s abuzz about The Hennessy, Mayfair Hotel’s hottest Rooftop Bar.

Why visit Adelaide?

Adelaide, the state capital of the Southeast region is rich with pine forests; world-class wineries in its surrounding hills that are dotted with fertile vineyards from the Barossa Valley to McLaren Vale; to the east, the great Murray River meanders from the Victoria border down to the Southern Ocean (more on that later), and the topping on the cake for beach lovers like me–Adelaide boasts a spectacular coastline including the popular white sandy beaches of Gulf St. Vincent.

Did you know no convicts were transported here?

Home to Aborigines for more than 10,000 years, the region was settled by Europeans in 1836 when Governor John Hindmarsh proclaimed the area a British colony. William Light, the Surveyor General, chose the site of the city of Adelaide.  The settlement was based on a theory of free colonization funded solely by land sales, and no convicts were transported here.  Adelaide was carefully planned by Colonel Light with its ordered grid pattern, anchored by pretty squares and gardens, the city is surrounded by luscious green parkland.

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Beyond the well-designed public parklands, one of the vivid character traits Adelaide possesses which visitors quickly note upon arrival is the abundance of architectural wonders.  The city is like a blank canvas for modern architects, and what they’ve designed and engineered is pretty amazing!  Here are just a few total stand-outs: [L to R]  UoA Adelaide Medical & Nursing School;  South Australian Health and Medical Institute, (SAHMI, also nicknamed “The Grater”)  [Bottom L] Rundle Mall

The State Capital, Adelaide is a brilliant, living Architectural Museum!

The State Capital, Adelaide is a brilliant, living Architectural Museum!

The city reflects the residents forward thinking attitude, as well as their youthful approach to maintaining a high quality of life–and that means living well, eating healthy, staying fit, and taking the time to smell the roses. And, there’s no better place to get a whiff of the floral varieties than at the spectacular glasshouse at Adelaide Botanic Gardens.

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Nothing fuels our appetites than a full day of exploration. We love knowing our Mayfair Hotel boasts one of Adelaide’s most highly-regarded culinary artist–Chef Bethany Finn at The Mayflower Restaurant and Bar.

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A fun insider info–Chef Bethany nurtures her very own Beehives on the Rooftop of the Mayfair Hotel, which produces the most exquisite honey I’ve ever tasted. Perhaps it’s because these bees reside in luxury?  Chef Bethany finds numerous tasty ways to  brilliantly weave her freshly harvested, purest honey into both the Bar’s signature drinks,  and the mouth-watering recipes she prepares at the Mayflower Restaurant! Livin’ is definitely sweeter at the Mayfair.  And, less you forget, when the day is over we also get to sink ourselves into one of the Mayfair‘s  heavenly beds! #tia: #ThisIsAustralia. Hospitality Extraordinaire!

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Goodnight.  Please stay tuned for more amazing adventure updates as we report on:

> Southern Australia’s food and wine connoisseur’s mecca–the fertile hillsides, vineyard-dotted,  Barossa Valley–an easy hour’s drive from Adelaide;

> the many things we learned from our pleasantly soothing River Cruise on board the p/s  Murray Princess.

> our unforgettable, adventure-filled week in Queensland at Thala Beach Nature Reserve and the Great Barrier Reef, one of Australia’s greatest treasure;

> our epic Great Southern Rail transcontinental journey on the Indian Pacific “Platinum Service” across the Great Outback, from Sydney to Perth;

> our wildly pristine surprise at Rottnest Island;

> and, Perth Perfect is exactly that–Perfect!  Take a sunset cruise on board Captain Cook Cruises, and you’ll understand what I mean.

> And, less I forget, our beautiful stay in the most envied postcard-perfect Harbour capital in the world–Splendid Sydney!

If you’re starting to think Australia just might have it all, may I simply say you could well be on the right track indeed. This may also explain the very reason visitors have been known to arrive in Australia and never leave!

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In the interim, here’s to Blissful, Endless Escapes…and, remember, no matter where you go, be the kindest person you know.

With love,

Mel, THE ESCAPESEEKER

 

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BREAKING NEWS: ESCAPESEEKER “ECUADOR UNEQUALED” EPIC SEASON PROMO UNVEILED

Monday, May 1st, 2017

ESCAPESEEKER POST PRODUCTION  ~ They say a picture is worth a thousand words. Accordingly,  moving pictures must then be worth a thousand stories right? My amazing ESCAPESEEKER film team and I are thrilled  to share the following first look at our Ecuador Unequaled promo, which I am confident will help illustrate how we capture each destination’s unique stories. As the ESCAPESEEKER series’ writer and host, I’m a firm believer that the stories are best told by the actual inhabitants–joyful, kind-hearted, generous, engaging–we seek out those  who know best, and who proudly cherish their native land.

The Amazon grabs at your heart and never lets go. Our authentic Amazon experience during our stay at La Selva Amazon Eco-Lodge & Spa is something we will always cherish.

The Amazon grabs at your heart and never lets go. Our authentic Amazon experience during our stay at La Selva Amazon Eco-Lodge & Spa is something we will always cherish.

#intheirownwords…

I continually strive to utilize my interviewing skills a seasoned global journalist to present the right questions and allow our featured native “stars” to speak straight from their heart. Combined with my passion-driven,  Emmy award-winning team’s photographic talents and artistry, I hope you’ll agree after viewing the promo that we achieved our lofty objective! We’ll keep you updated as to the exact broadcast dates and times of our brand new ESCAPESEEKER 2017 PBS Fall Season launch as soon as it becomes available.  In the meantime, dream…and we hope you too, will be inspired to explore and discover this enticing, unequaled country we call ECUADOR!  There’s no other place in the world that can compare.

http://https://youtu.be/T3D6A68uCbw

We wish to express our gratitude to all of our many Ecuadorian newfound friends who opened your doors to us, welcomed us warmly, and granted us an honest and rare insider’s glimpse into your extraordinary, inspiring lives.

#musicistheuniversallanguage: We had the privilege of witnessing the most fabulous evening immersed in beautiful Ecuadorian folk music at MISQUILLA with its Founder, Juan Fernando Velasco, Latin Grammy Nominated artist, who also featured his gifted Ecuadorian talents. #ittakesavillagetoproduceESCAPESEEKER

#musicistheuniversallanguage: We had the privilege of witnessing the most fabulous evening immersed in beautiful Ecuadorian folk music at MISQUILLA with its Founder, Juan Fernando Velasco, Latin Grammy Nominated Artist, who also featured his gifted, fellow-Ecuadorian talents. #ittakesavillagetoproduceESCAPESEEKER

#envision. #explore. #embrace.

For a country its size, Ecuador offers an incredible list of #unequaledexperiences.  With its Andean peaks, Amazon rainforest, indigenous markets, colonial towns–not to mention one of the most famous chains of volcanic islands in the world, inhabited by fascinating wildlife, some of which are found only in the Galapagos!

The Fausto Llerena Tortoise Center, a long-term program run jointly by the Galapagos National Park Directorate and the Charles Darwin Foundation, began in 1965 to save the giant tortoise population on Pinzón. It was quickly expanded to include other populations, in particular that of Española where only 14 individuals remained. As of 2008, more than 4,000 young tortoises from eight different populations have been repatriated to their island of origin, with nearly 1,500 going back to Española.

The Fausto Llerena Tortoise Center, a long-term program run jointly by the Galapagos National Park Directorate and the Charles Darwin Foundation, began in 1965 to save the giant tortoise population on Pinzón. It was quickly expanded to include other populations, in particular that of Española where only 14 individuals remained. As of 2008, more than 4,000 young tortoises from eight different populations have been repatriated to their island of origin, with nearly 1,500 going back to Española.

 

 

Charles Darwin described them as "hideous-looking" and "most disgusting, clumsy lizards." It's true, they're not pretty, with their wide-set eyes, smashed-in faces, spiky dorsal scales, and knotty, salt-encrusted heads. But what these unusual creatures lack in looks they make up for with their amazing and unique ecological adaptations. Wait until you see the fascinating footage we captured! I personally think 'beauty is in the eye of the beholder'--do you agree?

Charles Darwin described them as “hideous-looking” and “most disgusting, clumsy lizards.”
It’s true, some may say decide they’re not pretty, with their wide-set eyes, smashed-in faces, spiky dorsal scales, and knotty, salt-encrusted heads. But what these unusual creatures lack in looks they make up for with their amazing and unique ecological adaptations. Wait until you see the fascinating footage we captured! I personally think ‘beauty is in the eye of the beholder’–do you agree?

We feel it an absolute privilege to share Ecuador’s unique character, soulful heart, and unequaled beauty with the rest of the world. We could not have done it without your invaluable and generous support. On behalf of my entire ESCAPESEEKER team, Muchas Gracias!

Our destinations featured:

Quito:  Casa Gangotena, [casagangotena.com] with music segment at Misquilla, [www.misquilla.com]

The High Andes’ Rainforest: Mashpi Lodge [www.mashpi.com]

The Ecuadorian Amazon: La Selva Amazon Eco-Lodge & Spa [www.laselvajunglelodge.com]

The Galapagos Islands: Haugan Cruises’ catamaran, “Petrel” [www.haugancruises.com]

Our heartfelt Thank you also to our brilliant, indefatigable ESCAPESEEKER Ecuador Unequaled “Guest Talents” who fuel our innate wanderlust and beautifully manifest their insatiable passion for travel:

#thewindbeneathmywings: Evan Zissimopulos, Jacob Voelzke, Roy Henderson, John Hempellman, Mary McGill, Dawn Adams, J. Dann Adams, Marjorie MacArthur, Tom Whittier, Christine Hedges, [Not pictured: Mimmie Byrne, Byrne, Melody Clyde]

#thewindbeneathmywings: Evan Zissimopulos, Jacob Voelzke, Roy Henderson, John Hempellman, Mary McGill, Dawn Adams, J. Dann Adams, Marjorie MacArthur, Tom Whittier, Christine Hedges, [Not pictured: Mimmie Byrne, Byrne, Melody Clyde]

Interested in joining our amazing team? FYI…Our #1 Rule we require all to adhere–You must take off your [American] lenses and see, feel, taste, embrace the country respectfully through the eyes of the natives.

Would you like more details or have questions regarding our #ecuadorunequaled adventure?

 

Feel free to write me at:  escapeseeker@gmail.com or let’s chat via Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ESCAPESEEKER-367501815104/

I would love to hear from you!

Here’s to Blissful, Endless ESCAPES…

And, remember, no matter where you go, be the kindest person you know,

Mel aka ESCAPESEEKER

Saying Goodbye to Ecuador with a heart full of #gratitude #unequaled...

Saying Adios to Ecuador with a heart full of #gratitude #unequaled…

 

 

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WHALERS’ WOES: Ruins of an Industry Rusting at the Bottom of the World; And, the GREATEST WILDLIFE GATHERING I’ve Ever Witnessed!

Wednesday, March 2nd, 2016

southWriter’s Notes:  On January 6, 2016, our One Ocean Expedition made several visits to South Georgia Island.  Prior to our arrival, I became absorbed in Sir Ernest Shackleton’s book, “South” wherein he vividly chronicled their Antarctic expedition, their failed attempt to reach the South Pole, and his unbelievable, triumphant rescue of his men. Between Shackleton’s book and One Ocean Expeditions’ daily lectures from the on-board Antarctic scholars, my thirst for further Antarctic history and knowledge continued to deepen.  I read just about everything I could get my hands on during sea-days.  And, to have it all come alive during our South Georgia Island visits was better than any university class I could have taken.  If you’re the kind of traveler who demands more than just a drive-by cruise experience in Antarctica, then I highly recommend you seek out the authentic expedition companies like One Ocean Expeditions that fuel the imagination, and brings the history/nature books to life. ~ Mel Gee Henderson

PS:  Your hunger for knowledge does not end when you disembark at the end of the epic expedition.  As I’ve discovered, the more I’ve learned, the more I hunger for more.  And, honestly, isn’t that what travel is designed to do?  Make us all brighter at the end of the day!

Quote of the Day:  “Don’t tell me how educated you are, tell me how much you traveled.” ~ Mohammed

South Georgia Island ~ At the start of the last century, dozens of companies set up whaling operations on South Georgia Island. After several highly profitable decades, however, they became victims of  their own success and modernization. If these walls could talk, what stories they would tell?  Welcome to Grytviken. Grytviken

2000px-South_georgia_Islands_map-en.svgGrytviken was the first whaling station to launch operations on the British island of South Georgia, lying in the South Atlantic roughly 2,000 kilometers (1,200 miles) due east of the bottom boot tip of Argentina. For 58 years, Grytviken was in continuous operation. It survived two world wars and a global economic crisis, greeted expeditions to Antarctica that had gotten stuck in pack ice and processed an enormous number of whales into oil and meat. In more than half a century, it handled 53,761 slaughtered whales, producing 455,000 metric tons of whale oil and 192,000 metric tons of whale meat. Then Grytviken became the icy ghost town that it is today. This fate was shared by all the whaling stations in the Antarctic. As the whaling industry boomed at the beginning of the 20th century, dozens of companies set up whaling operations here. When it became clear that whaling could fetch hefty profits, six permanent whaling stations were set up on South Georgia alone. Grytviken was the last to close up shop.

Museum GrytvikenToday, all that remains is a movie theater, a church, a museum and a cemetery. All the cozy homes have been buried and destroyed by snow and ice. All the original residents have moved away, or died long ago. A landscape once filled by 500 men and their families is now inhabited by at most a few penguins, seals and tourists like me. And what was a remote stronghold of industrial whaling roughly a century ago is now nothing more than a city of ice, snow and rubble, and a handful of incredibly resilient, hardy caretakers who ensure that the island’s unique history isn’t totally lost.

 Whaling Where Only The Fearless Go

The prevailing view at the time was that whaling around the South Pole promised little.  Nonetheless, the pioneers of Antarctic whaling were convinced that whaling  would still be a good idea because Europe’s northern seas had largely been emptied of whales by the turn of the century. On November 16, 1904, the Fortuna and another ship dropped anchor off Grytviken, and the station’s new 80-member crew set to work. It didn’t take long before the station was up and running. By Christmas Eve, the men had produced the first barrel of whale oil. Within a year’s time, that figure was meant to skyrocket to 7,000.

Whale Oil To Light The World

The whales were hunted down on the open seas, shot with harpoons, dragged to port and heaved onto shore at the stations. They were particularly prized for their blubber, the white layer of fat beneath the skin. At the time, the glycerin derived from this blubber was the main element used in cosmetic products like soaps and lotions, but it also formed the basis of fuels for oil lamps and boilers.

Whale hunters are dwarfed by their huge catch, a fin whale, on the whaler 'Q Plain' off Crytoiken or Grytviken, South Georgia. (Photo by Central Press/Getty Images)

Whale hunters are dwarfed by their huge catch, a fin whale, on the whaler ‘Q Plain’ off Crytoiken or Grytviken, South Georgia. (Photo by Central Press/Getty Images)

As time went on, the competing whaling stations continued to boost their capacities. At times, they even had to lend each other empty barrels when stations had more fat than containers to store it in. Between 1907 and 1908, the station at Grytviken produced more than 27,000 barrels of oil, after having filled only about 12,000 the previous year. These years in the first decade of the 20th century were also a golden era for those who invested in such operations: Within a single year, their dividends rose a mighty 15 percent, to reach 32.5 percent.

Even after Europe slid into war in 1914, things continued to go comparatively well for the whale hunters in the Antarctic. The supply of coal needed to fire the blubber-melting boilers admittedly got tighter. But the general shortage of resources simultaneously drove the price of whale oil up. Indeed, at times Grytviken could fetch up to 90 British pounds for a metric ton of whale oil — more than they had ever earned before. The whale fat also found use in the war effort, with blubber-produced nitroglycerin being used in explosive artillery shells and bombs. What’s more, there was growing demand in war-plagued Europe for cheap, but nutritious whale meat.

Butchering the whales at the stations was hard work done by hand. After being harpooned and towed to port, the whales were winched up a ramp and onto shore to die. Using sharp blades, two men made incisions on both sides of the whale along its entire length. From these, the white blubber would then pour out to the left and right. In the end, the men would strip the skin of the whale and separate the blubber from the meat.

A rusty whaling ship lies at the abandoned Husvik whaling station in Stromness Bay, South Georgia Island. When the whaling industry boomed at the beginning of the 20th century, dozens of companies set up whaling operations here. When it became clear that whaling could fetch hefty profits, six permanent whaling stations were set up on South Georgia alone.

A rusty whaling ship lies at the abandoned Husvik whaling station in Stromness Bay, South Georgia Island. When the whaling industry boomed at the beginning of the 20th century, dozens of companies set up whaling operations here. When it became clear that whaling could fetch hefty profits, six permanent whaling stations were set up on South Georgia alone.

Lured by high oil prices, some 19 companies set up whaling operations in the Antarctic at the beginning of World War I. Many of them wanted to speed up the killing process by going out on the high sea to hunt without a permit or dedicated processing stations. In doing so, they also cut into the business of land-based competitors, such as the Grytviken station.

40,000 Hunted Whales in a Single Season

The situation came to a head the following year, with whales becoming increasingly scarce and the storage rooms filling with unsold oil. In the 1930/31 season, the slaughter at the South Pole reached its zenith: A total of 40,201 whales were killed, about 32,000 of which were killed by unlicensed hunters on the open sea. By way of comparison, when Grytviken heralded in the era of industrial whaling in the Antarctic in 1904, whalers killed only 183 whales in the initial year.

The companies agreed to voluntary quotas for the next season, but the limits came too late for many species. By the mid-1930s, the humpback whale was virtually extinct in the Antarctic. At the same time, overproduction drove the price of whale oil to a record low. One station after another on South Georgia went under. By the time World War II broke out, only two were still active: Grytviken and Leith Harbour, whose cold warehouse also stored tons of whale oil produced in Grytviken.

Grytviken stayed afloat only because it still had financial reserves left from the golden years to temporarily cushion its losses. But the few successful years couldn’t make up for the fact that the company needed restructuring and to update its dilapidated station. In 1950, for example, Grytviken was being served by six harpoon boats that had been in service for more than 20 years.One last attempt at modernization in 1962 came too late.

Note:  My special thanks to einestages.de, SPIEGEL ONLINE’s history portal for being a tremendous Grytviken research source.

POSTCRIPT to GRYTVIKEN

Grytviken has been cleaned up and restored to a great degree by the Government of South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands. We learned that the Norwegian Government has also provided some level of funding because the total annual Budget of the Government in South Georgia is $9 million. They run a tight and efficient staff with only seven employees. We met one Government Official named, Simon, and the rest are in Stanley or on their Fisheries Patrol Boats. Almost all the Government revenue comes from the sale of fisheries licenses, and visitors’ fees which are $60 per day, per person. We were happy to do our part.  They’ve also recruited a Museum Intern, Matthew, who gave us an in-depth tour and enlightened briefing on how the old whaling station used to operate. The Museum is sponsored by the University of St. Andrews and students like Matthew are selected to spend 6 months in Grytviken. After our adventures on shore we returned to our Ship for a delightful dinner.  We were joined by several of the Museum and government staff at Grytviken, including Simon and Matthew, and some of the scientists from the nearby British Station.  Once again, we made new friends. It was difficult to say goodbye to  our brilliant Grytviken friends!

After sailing all night, we landed at St. Andrews Bay where three large glaciers reach and caress the frosty sea. The surf was roaring as if to share in our excitement at reaching land. As we approached the shore, words from our King Penguin lecturer echoed in my mind, “You will witness what may be the largest colony of King Penguins on earth!” Well, our young Biologist, Kathryn was right.  The King Penguins seem to carpet the entire South Georgia landscape!   We were also greeted by HUGE (spoken in Trump fashion) Elephant Seals and a scattering of Fur Seals too. If ever I felt like a total alien on another planet, this was the day! Nothing could prepare me for this incredible experience. What an absolute “Pinch Me Moment!” Thank you Mother Nature.  Once again, my heart overflows with gratitude for eyes that can witness the grandeur of our majestic Planet Earth.

"Row upon row of king penguins stretching off into the distance. This colony in Salisbury Plain, South Georgia, has hundreds of thousands of inhabitants! The brown chicks creche together and stand out from the tuxedoed adults." ~Photo and caption by Craig Tomsett

“Row upon row of king penguins stretching off into the distance. This colony in Salisbury Plain, South Georgia, has hundreds of thousands of inhabitants! The brown chicks creche together and stand out from the tuxedoed adults.” ~Photo and caption by Craig Tomsett

 

We have one more day on South Georgia and then we sail to Antarctica–my 7th Continent.  My heart is that of a teen in-love for the very first time…it’s throbbing with anticipation!

If you wish to follow in my ESCAPESEEKER footsteps, the easiest way to begin is by clicking on the following link:  oneoceanexpeditions.com

Remember, no matter where you go, be the kindest person you know…and yes, that includes ALL living creatures you shall encounter.

Here’s to #blissful, #mindexpanding #soulenriching ESCAPES,

Mel aka The ESCAPESEEKER

ESCAPESEEKER Priceless moment captured by Craig Tomsett. [Salisbury Plain, South Georgia Island]

ESCAPESEEKER Priceless moment captured by Craig Tomsett. [Salisbury Plain, South Georgia Island]

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A MASTERFUL WORK OF ART PROUDLY RESTS UPON A REMOTE PATAGONIAN TOWN

Wednesday, April 15th, 2015

 by Mel Gee Henderson with select images captured by Miristi Gee DSC_0358

MasterfulArt: Remota HotelModern Art In Harmony With Patagonia’s Wild Horizon

 

Puerto Natales, Chile ~ It is dusk and we arrive at Remota hotel just as the sun is bidding the day adieu.  One can’t help but gaze at the way the hundreds of windows reflect the events taking place outside its walls. And, what are those events?  It’s Mother Nature’s own works of art on display day after day in this, the most remote and only outpost town of significant size in Chilean Patagonia, Puerto Natales.

AN ARCHITECT’S MISSION:  RESIDING IN HARMONY WITH NATURE

Architect Germán Del Sol, who is also a professor at the Universidad de Chile, wanted to conceal the luxury that awaits the traveler, “to lower the expectations, so its interior will appear unexpectedly in all its splendor.” It’s all about the element of surprise—including the fact that even with its innovative design and lavish comforts, the hotel was built with a conscious effort to care for nature, striving to use minimal energy.  Congratulations Mr. Del Sol. Mission accomplished. The minute one walks into Remota Hotel, you feel as though you’ve walked into an expansive living, breathing Museum of Modern Art. If it hadn’t been for the instant welcoming staff eager to make us feel right at home, I would have immediately begun exploring every corner of this innovative hotel on my own!

Golden Hue Remota Hotel exudes a warm golden hue exceeded only by the genuine warmth of its caring staff.

 

Recognizing my childlike curiosity, Marisa Pugliese, who serves as the General Manager’s international guests liaison–in great part due to her command of the English language–invited me to tour the hotel early the next morning, vividly explaining the philosophy behind each area of this masterful work of art.

No stone turned...Marisa pointed out that the empty central courtyard or plaza, introduces the vast wilderness of Patagonia at the core of the hotel.

It is surrounded in three sides by two guest rooms buildings, and the main one in the back a little higher, where the common areas of the hotel are placed.

“The plaza is empty, except for a few big boulders, but is full of suggestions- like the clear cut that one makes to see the forest. It lets one see what one wishes, whether it is the natural environment, or the strong culture that has allowed men, women and children to enjoy  life–the unique life found only in Patagonia.  The main plaza is an invitation to leave the warm environment of the hotel, and go wandering into the wild, unworried whether the day is windy or cold, keeping in mind that all the comforts of home await you at Remota when you return,” Marisa adds.

 MiristiGeeImageryThe ever-changing Patagonia light enters the building through the sequence of vertical cuts of the window panes granting guests the feeling of open space.

A LABOR OF LOVE…GIFTS FOUND IN NATURE

The strong and spartan geometric furniture was made by carpenters at the job site out of big pieces of dead native wood recovered from the big forests of Lenga trees that still thrive close to the sea in the Patagonian low lands.

In all the furnishings, the handwork expressed by the craftsmen is clearly evident, the fruit of their labors document the year-long challenge of ultimately bringing the hotel to life.

IMG_0254Remota affords so many options for guests to find their own favorite space to gather with family and friends or just merely close your eyes to ponder and reflect upon the beauty of life.  It’s easy to do when every day you’re given an opportunity to get up close to the world’s most iconic natural wonders, many of which some people can merely dream of visiting.

Let nature's light shine throughA Chilean poet describes, “What is important is not the light that one turns on every night, but the light that one once turned off allows the memory of light….”
A place to rest...After a day of exploring Puerto Natales and its nearby sites, it’s a welcome reprieve to be able to sink into our luscious beds!

NO MATTER HOW GRAND THE HOTEL, IT’S THE PEOPLE WHO ULTIMATELY MAKE IT STAND OUT ABOVE THE REST

Enter Marisa Pugliese, a beautiful Latina who embodies all the extraordinary qualities we associate with being Latina, especially after we learned of her family’s famed Argentine Tango roots.  She gave up dancing the Tango long ago, but she puts the same focus and passion the dance requires towards her hospitality duties as she serves as the liaison for all international visitors.  No matter what arises, Marisa is all about “Mission Possible”…and when you’re visiting a place as remote as Patagonia, you want someone at the helm with a total “can do” attitude!

Understanding that my ESCAPESEEKER team is on a quest to find the compelling stories to build a new episode featuring Puerto Natales, Marisa quickly introduced us to native Chilean guide, Javier Lazo.  My photographer, Miristi’s first reaction, “Ok, she knows how to be a “casting agent” too.”  Our guide definitely has a camera-friendly face! Now, the big test–will he have the encyclopedic knowledge of the area that our PBS program standard requires? Well, we were about to find out:

ANCIENT CAVES, CONDOR CLIFFS, and ETHNOBOTANY

1280px-Milodon_cave

We arose early to enjoy Remota’s bounteous breakfast to ensure we were properly fueled for our full day’s exploration with our expert guide, Javier Lazo.  Our first stop, Cueva del Milodón Natural Monument located  24 km (15 mi) northwest of Puerto Natales.

The monument is situated along the flanks of Cerro Benitez, and comprised of several caves and a rock formation called Silla del Diablo (Devil’s Chair). The monument also includes the largest 200 meter long cave discovered in 1895 by German explorer, Hermann Eberhard who found a large, seemingly fresh piece of skin of an unidentified animal. In 1896 the cave was again explored by Otto Nordenskjold who later recognized that the skin belonged to Mylodon, a giant ground sloth animal which became extinct at the end of the Pleistocene Epoch,the geological epoch which lasted from about 2,588,000 to 11,700 years ago, spanning the world’s most recent glacial era.

MilodonDarwiniAfter our mind-expanding geological history lesson, Javier led us further up the Cerro Benitez, continually teaching us about the flora and fauna.

10258344_10153704860798032_4915237461637036254_oThe higher we hiked, the more dramatically beautiful the vistas. I have an acronym for times like these, TYGM or “Thank You God” Moments!

Cerro Benitez8381-two-condors-soaring-below

I noticed we were not the only ones enjoying the view above Lago Sofia as we witnessed Andean Condors soaring below the cliff top where we stood.

Exploring on foot guided by an enthusiastic native guide is the fastest way to help modern travelers, especially those of us coming from big cities to relate with the natural environment and enjoy an enriching, mind-expanding, breathtaking experience.

Thank you Javier for fueling our curiosity and helping restore our childlike wonder.

Our dedicated Remota driver was waiting for us near Lago Sofia’s shoreline ready to take us back to Remota, just a short drive away,  where we had no doubt another of Chef René Espinoza’s delightful dinner offerings were being skillfully prepared. What’s our first hint? Well, for one, the incredible aroma of hot Chilean bread baking in the kitchen is enough to make one want to steal a few loaves!

OUR THIRST FOR KNOWLEDGE IS ONLY MATCHED BY OUR HUNGER FOR CHEF ESPINOZA’S CULINARY ARTISTRY

42-34986576As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words, so please permit me to allow this photo montage of the images captured by our own talented photographer, Miristi Gee to tell our delicious story of our nightly dining experiences. Chef Espinoza uses only the freshest ingredients–his baked crab casserole is out of this world–and, I’ve personally witnessed his bread makers and pastry chefs in action–they’ve gotta be the best bakers in Puerto Natales.

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PUERTO NATALES: A PORT TOWN BORN OF RUGGED, RESOURCEFUL,  IMMIGRANT PIONEERS WITH A WORK ETHIC THAT KNEW NO BOUNDS…

 LIFE IMITATING ARTMany Puerto Natales newly arrived adventure-seeking residents are drawn to the natural, inspiring beauty of this remote land.

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A LOOK BACK TO THE PAST…

punta-arenas-mapPuerto Natales is located in the province of  Última Esperanza (Last Hope), named by Juan Ladrilleros, the sailor who was seeking the Strait of Magellan in the year 1557. It was his “last hope” to find the Strait after exploring the maze of channels between the waters of the Pacific and the mainland. It was not until three centuries later, in 1830, that another major expedition sailed through the fjords and channels of Última Esperanza: the British expedition of the sloop HMS Beagle. Some of the expedition members, Robert FitzRoy, William Skyring and James Kirke as well as their senior officers are remembered by several place-names in the Puerto Natales area. Commander Fitzroy was the captain during the Second voyage of HMS Beagle (1831–1836).

In 1870, interest in the Ultima Esperanza region was rekindled. Among the daring travelers who ventured to these desolate lands was Santiago Zamora, also known as ‘Baqueano’ Zamora. He discovered the lakes of the Torres del Paine area. Another was the English traveler and writer Lady Florence Dixie, commemorated in the city’s present-day Hotel Lady Florence Dixie. Dixie authored the book Across Patagonia, where she describes the first tourist expedition to Torres del Paine and the Three Horns (the three granite spires) which she named as Cleopatra’s Needles.

Puerto Natales was founded on May 1911 as a port for the sheep industry. During the last half of the 20th century the sheep industry declined and many people from Puerto Natales started to work in the coal mines of Río Turbio in Argentina. During the peak of the sheep industry in Patagonia, two large “frigorificos” or cold-storage plants were constructed in the Natales area, of which one still stands.

TODAY and TOMORROW…

Puerto Natales has many tourist facilities to meet every budget,  including sporting goods stores carrying popular global brands, i.e. Solomon for the serious outdoor enthusiasts.   It has become a common base for excursions to the world-famous Torres del Paine National Park, one of the most visited national parks in Chile, in great part due to its  impressive, towering rock formations.  Named a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, the park is home to hundreds of different birds and many mammal species, as well as the third largest ice field on the planet.  The national park is open all year round, but the best season to visit the park is from October to April, the southern hemisphere’s spring and summer season, the latter of which has more than 16 hours of daylight–a mountaineer’s delight!

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Stay tuned for our next report…when we discover what it’s like to reside at a true Chilean “Estancia” located within the shadow of the Torres del Paine!

Until then, here’s to #Blissful, #Endless #Escapes…

With love,

Mel Gee Henderson aka The ESCAPESEEKER

DSC_0105How we got there: via LAN Airlines:   www.lanairlines.com MIA/SCL/PUQ

Upon arrival in Punta Arenas, we were picked up by TURISMO BOULDER

Contact: Gonzalo Ginouves @ +56 9 79572915 or turismoboulder@gmail.com

REMOTA

www.remotahotel.com

Ruta 9 Norte, km 1.5

Puerto Natales, Chile

info@remota.net

+56 2 23871500

Architect: German del Sol
Location: Provincia de Última Esperanza, Magallanes, Patagonia,
Project team: José Luis Ibañez G. / Architect, Francisca Schüler M. / Architect, Carlos Venegas / Architect, Rodrigo Arenas P. / Graphics Arts
Contractor: Salfa, Punta Arenas
Constructed Area: 5,213.46 sqm
Project year: 2004 – 2005
Construction year: 2004 – 2005
Additional Photographs by Guy Wenborne, Felipe Camus.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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THE ART OF CRUISING: Navigating with Grace

Friday, August 15th, 2014

Stockholm, Sweden ~ I shall begin my cruise report from where it ended.  Yes, by the time the Wind Surf arrived in Stockholm on the 10th day of our voyage,  I knew I was going to have a difficult time disembarking this impressive vessel, and saying goodbye to so many new-found friends from around the world! After all, with only 300 passengers on board, it was easy to get to know one another, sharing delicious meals, and comparing notes on the many explorations we were offered at every stop.  Yes, by the time we said our goodbyes, we had grown into one very large, happy, cruising family–each member leaving with priceless memories and adventure stories that will only become more vivid as they will surely be repeated time and time again. If you’ve ever had a desire to make new friends who share your passion for travel, then may I suggest you take up “The Art of Cruising!”  For our voyage, we had seasoned British Captain J. Peter Harris at the helm!

The Windstar Cruises' sleek schooner, The Wind Surf wove a Scandinavian itinerary for our splendid Summer Sail...guaranteeing one breathtaking sunset after another!

The Windstar Cruises’ sleek schooner, The Wind Surf wove a Scandinavian itinerary for our splendid Summer Sail…guaranteeing one breathtaking sunset after another!

Tthe happiest seafarer I've ever met -- The Wind Surf's Captain J. Peter Harris! He took the time to meet every passenger on board, and as far as I could tell--he actually knew everyone by name! Now that is no easy feat--but then again, neither is navigating our stunning "schooner" as the Captain refers to our gorgeous Wind Surf across these Baltic waters. Captain Harris does it all with such calm and grace, inspiring me to entitle our future ESCAPESEEKER episode script, "The Art Of Cruising: Navigating with Grace!"

The  happiest seafarer I’ve ever met — The Wind Surf’s Captain J. Peter Harris! He took the time to meet every passenger on board, and as far as I could tell–he actually knew everyone by name! Now that is no easy feat–but then again, neither is navigating our stunning “schooner” as the Captain refers to our gorgeous Wind Surf across these Baltic waters. Captain Harris does it all with such calm and grace, inspiring me to entitle our future ESCAPESEEKER episode script, “The Art Of Cruising: Navigating with Grace!”

Our final stop, Stockholm. Considered by many to be one of the most beautiful capitals in the world, Stockholm offers visitors and locals alike, a plethora of exciting activities and dining offerings to please even the most discerning palate!

Our final stop, Stockholm. Considered by many to be one of the most beautiful capitals in the world, Stockholm offers visitors and locals alike, a plethora of exciting activities and dining offerings to please even the most discerning palate!

On any given day, the 310-guest Windstar Cruises' flagship, Wind Surf, attracts admiring glances wherever she goes...as she glides gracefully into port with her tall sails dancing with the wind. As a passenger, I rarely missed an opportunity to go bridge side just to partake of her "awesomeness" as the young guests often described her in action!

On any given day, the 310-guest Windstar Cruises’ flagship, Wind Surf, attracts admiring glances wherever she goes…as she glides gracefully into port with her tall sails dancing with the wind. As a passenger, I rarely missed an opportunity to go bridge side just to partake of her “awesomeness” as the young guests often described her in action!

 

YACHT FACTS

CAPACITY: 310 Guests

STATEROOMS: 122 deluxe ocean view staterooms

SUITES: 31 deluxe ocean view suites

BRIDGE DECK SUITES: 2 deluxe ocean view bridge suites

DECKS: 6 decks

CREW: 191 international staff

SHIP’S REGISTRY: Bahamas

LENGTH: 535 feet (162 meters) at waterline; 617 feet (187meters) including bowsprit

DRAFT: 16.5 feet (5 meters)

TONNAGE: 14,745 gross registered tons (grt)

BEAM: 66 feet (20 meters)

SAILS: 7 triangular, self-furling, computer-operated sails with 26,881 square feet (or 2,600 square meters) of Dacron surface area

MASTS: 5 at 164 feet (50 meters)

ENGINES: 4 diesel electric generating sets, 2 electrical propulsion motor

SPEED: 10 to 12 knots with engines only; up to 15 knots wind and engine assisted

It is undeniable...there's something about the salty fresh air, the endless horizon, and the knowledge that by the time you greet the morning sun, you'll be met with another stunning postcard-perfect, mind-expanding exploration opportunity--what's not to love about "The Art of Cruising"?

It is undeniable…there’s something about the salty fresh air, the endless horizon, and the knowledge that by the time you greet the morning sun, you’ll be met with another stunning postcard-perfect, mind-expanding exploration opportunity–what’s not to love about “The Art of Cruising”?

Each time I savor my time on deck, I am reminded by Ralph Waldo Emerson’s words, “The health of the eye seems to demand a horizon. We are never tired, so long as we can see far enough.” 

This could not ring more true than when you’re sailing on the Wind Surf, where each day, from sunrise to sunset, you are granted one stunning vista after another. There is something absolutely rejuvenating about being out at sea, and I’m not just referring to the nice free face lift the wind affords, complements of Mother Nature.  There’s nothing more soothing than looking out into the horizon and feeling the vastness of our beautiful universe. And, at nightfall, oh the infinite stars that shine ever so brightly in the firmament!  It’s impossible not to recognize the impact it is having on your beating heart!
Cruising is an outstanding way to make new life-long friends!

Cruising is an outstanding way to make new life-long friends!

I’m confident my fellow passengers, Joey Greenwood, and Mark Bielawny would tell you the same!  Follow our sailing footsteps, and bask beneath her stunning sails. I highly recommend you experience it for yourself.  It is truly an Art…one of which mastering would be an absolute JOY!  Stay tuned for more updates from ESCAPESEEKER as our entire  film team captures “The Art of Cruising” at its best!
Our Scandinavian itinerary offered something for everyone...for the young and the young at heart!

Our Scandinavian itinerary offered something for everyone…for the young and the young at heart!

Copenhagen was vibrant with activity. If you wish to interact with the locals...this is the place!

Copenhagen is vibrant and beaming with activity. If you wish to interact with the locals…this is the place!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were blessed with the bluest skies throughout our voyage. Perhaps Mother Nature knew it was my birthday month and thought I deserved celebrating during the most beautiful, endless days of Summer?

We were blessed with the bluest skies throughout our voyage. Perhaps Mother Nature knew it was my birthday month and thought I deserved celebrating during the most beautiful, endless days of Summer?

HAPPY BIRTHDAY ESCAPESEEKER!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY ESCAPESEEKER!

In case you’re wondering about the Wind Surf’s meñu…well, here’s a sneak peak…everyday felt like a birthday celebration…as it should be right?  Life is short…Eat dessert first! I’ll end this report on a sweet note.  It’s time you find out for yourselves.  So what are you waiting for…with a click of the hand, you too, can be on your way…your first course on mastering “The Art of Cruising!” www.windstarcruises.com

Here’s to Blissful Endless Escapes…and Remember, no matter where you go, be the kindest person you know!

With love,

Mel

It takes a tremendous amount of self-discipline not to order lobster every night from the Wind Surf's diverse meñu offering. There's something to satisfy even the most discerning food aficionado!

Lobster feast anyone?

 

It's always nice to get a visit during dinner from Chef Monty...

It’s always nice to get a visit during dinner from Chef Monty…

I predict you won't be able to refuse the nightly sweet endings...

I predict you won’t be able to refuse the nightly sweet endings…

If seafood isn't your favorite fare...no worries!

If seafood isn’t your favorite fare…no worries!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Snapshots…Smiles we shall remember for a lifetime…

If you wish to learn more about what kind of training it takes to be part of Captain Harris' team--just ask...they're more than happy to share.   If you wish to learn more about what kind of training it takes to be part of Captain Harris’ brilliant team–just ask…they’re more than happy to share their     knowledge and passion for the sea!

Being "Berliners" in Berlin with my new cruising friends from Northern California, Barbara and Heidy!

Being “Berliners” in Berlin with my new cruising friends from Northern California, Barbara and Heidy!

The Art of Cruising...what a beautiful way to explore the world...

The Art of Cruising…what a beautiful way to explore the world…

Our Hotel Director, just making sure we're all doing great! I think the smiles on our faces speak volumes!

Our Hotel Director, just making sure we’re all doing great! I think the smiles on our faces speak volumes!

Happy Cruisers Indeed!

Happy Cruisers Indeed!

Postcard-Perfect Lillesand, Norway...The Wind Surf gives us an "Up close and Personal" experience!

Postcard-Perfect Lillesand, Norway…The Wind Surf  afforded us an “Up close and Personal” experience!

Edinburgh, Scotland…seems apropos that our voyage would begin where MAGIC is used to describe every day occurrence…for MAGICAL is exactly how our voyage felt right from the start! Thank you Windstar Cruises for living up to your slogan… “Always 180 degrees from ordinary!”

Edinburgh, Scotland…seems apropos that our voyage would begin where MAGIC is used to describe every day occurrence…for MAGICAL is exactly how our voyage felt right from the start! Thank you Windstar Cruises for living up to your slogan…
“Always 180 degrees from ordinary!”

[Select Images by Photojournalist, Mel Gee Henderson aka “The ESCAPESEEKER”]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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