Posts Tagged ‘Torres del Paine Parque Nacional’

CHILE: Long, Lean, and Simply Spectacular…Our ESCAPESEEKER South American Odyssey Continues into the Heart of Patagonia

Friday, April 24th, 2015

By Mel Gee Henderson

With select images by ESCAPESEEKER Photographer, Miristi GeeDSC_0358

11001647_1627407797487815_6003666140581740289_oand, baqueano photos captured  by Miguel Angel Fuentealba,  Las Torres Hotel Patagonia

Torres del Paine Parque Nacional, Patagonia

With Torres del Paine Parque Nacional* measuring approximately 242,242 hectares, one of the largest and most visited parks in Chile, one ESCAPESEEKER episode could hardly do it justice!  We are thrilled to learn that we are being afforded an opportunity to return, explore and capture on film other facets of this magnificent nature’s wonder! Declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 1978, the Torres del Paine National Park is internationally recognized as one of the most beautiful, pristine destinations on the planet!

My first view of Torres del Paine!Torres del Paine National Park is located between Cordillera de Los Andes and Patagonian Steppe. This view was captured as I stood on the shores of Lago Sarmiento.

d-a-a-de-campo-en-la-estancia-1940But even more priceless, we are given the chance to experience it through the eyes of the family and friends of Antonio Kusanovic Senkovic, the son of Croatian immigrants who arrived with his parents in the Magallanes Region as a teen.  Following his parents’ exemplary work ethic and immense sacrifice, Antonio became a highly successful cattle farmer, and in 1976 he bought the beautiful Cerro Paine Estancia, located at the foot of the majestic Torres del Paine mountain range. It was here at this 8,000-acre ranch that Antonio began his cattle breeding business.

In the early 90´s Antonio and his wife Amor Eliana Marusic decided to build nine rooms with a small restaurant to welcome the many tourists arriving from around the world, attracted by the sheer legendary beauty of Torres del Paine. Today,  the Hotel Las Torres Patagonia has grown in size and scope, but still retains the original goal of the Antonio Kusanovic Senkovic Family: to afford each guest an authentic Chilean Patagonian experience, “by sharing the warmth of the people and customs of Patagonia.”

Baqueano Por Un Día | Baqueano For A Day

One of the ways guests are able to get a first hand glimpse into their unique Patagonian lifestyle is well, frankly, mount a horse! Take a look:

http://youtu.be/zpN6DznTW6E

 More on how to  follow in the footsteps of the Cowboys of Patagonia:

Chile’s Baqueanos

The word “baqueano” is usually easily translated as “cowboy” which is its closest equivalent outside of Chile.  But in reality a baqueano is so much more than just a cowboy.  Please permit me to share what I’ve learned about the rich cultural tradition of the baqueano of Patagonia:

10506951_555047434601419_6101872349018842064_oThe Baqueano

“Strong, reserved, silent, proud, courteous, loyal”  are just some of the words used by Hotel Las Torres guests to describe the characteristics of the baqueano with whom they’ve eagerly explored the mountains and valleys of Torres del Paine.   Above all things, they say “a baqueano is a man connected to the land with a detailed knowledge about their revered stunning expanse of  Patagonian soil.” It is easy to see he is a skillful rider, with an almost telepathic connection to his horse. Dressed in worn leather riding boots, baggy trousers, a beret and neckerchief, and when needed for warmth, an added wool poncho tied in a knot under his right arm so as not to fly in the wind and unduly alarm his horse, he wanders at will through the untamed wilderness, even across cold raging rivers. It is simply a striking image that you’ll not easily forget!
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Even today,  Patagonia still represents a frontier many people merely dream of exploring. Its tempestuous, unpredictable weather presents a challenge  for many, but the bagueano remains undeterred,  heading deep into Patagonia, always exploring and rediscovering its mysteries. First and foremost, the baqueano has always been a pathfinder.  A true baqueano knows how to orient himself at all times, using the sun, the stars and the landscape to find his way. They are renowned for knowing how to find shelter and clean drinking water in the middle of nowhere, and how to avoid natural hazards such as swamps and quaking bogs. It is said that they can find their way anywhere, even in the all-encompassing darkness of the Patagonian night. These are the very reasons they are so sought after as expert guides by Europeans and Americans seeking to experience a true, authentic, goosebump producing Patagonian adventure!
10547973_555041727935323_1316245774360426479_o 2The Chilean Horse
A baqueano’s horse is his proudest and perhaps, dare I say his most prized possession, since it is his favorite mode of travel, his work source and, at times may even be his only traveling companion. The Chilean horse is one of the oldest breeds on the South American continent and after centuries of breeding it is perfectly adapted to life in Patagonia. Chilean horses tend to be slightly smaller than many North American or European breeds, at about 14 hands high on average.  They are muscular and built for endurance with a very thick hair coat that protects them both from extreme cold and intense heat. They are born and grow up on the Patagonian plains and in the foothills of the Andes, so they are naturally sure-footed and at ease in their environment. Descended from generation upon generation of working horses, they are incredibly responsive, reacting to the lightest touch of the rein. This is just as well, since most baqueanos ride ‘one-handed’ using their spare hand for balance and for other needs that may arise.

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The baqueanos revere their land…in their new-found country of Chile. This is the estancia where it all began for the Antonio Kusanovic Senkovic Family.

 IMG_6261Upon setting foot on this untamed land, and witnessing the sheep farmer sheer his sheep, I am reminded of something I read:  “To husband is to use with care, to keep, to save, to make last, to conserve. Old usage tells us that there is a husbandry also of the land, of the soil, of the domestic plants and animals – obviously because of the importance of these things to the household…Husbandry is the name of all practices that sustain life by connecting us conservationly to our places and our world; it is the art of keeping tied all the strands in the living network that sustains us.” ~ Wendell Berry, writings from  Bringing it to the Table
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IT IS ALL IN THE FAMILY: 

Continuing The Antonio Kusanovic Senkovic Family Legacy

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A welcoming home built against all odds…

in the wild, untamed Patagonian Prairie

001 facebook_cover (1)It is always a cherished privilege when my ESCAPESEEKER film team is given the opportunity to share the inspiring story of dynamic individuals who helped shape the unique landscape of a region or a country we are featuring. So it is with our in-depth look at Torres del Paine.  We’ve shared our wildlife discoveries in Episode 1 of Chile: Long, Lean, and Simply Spectacular. During our 2015-2016 Season, we will take you deeper into Torres del Paine with the people who proudly reside in its midst. They will share what it is like to grow up in the shadow of the Grand Massif as they invite us to share in this unique “Estancia Experience” of Las Torres Patagonia, a place we quickly discovered makes all who visit feel like a member of the family! Honestly, the aroma of the Chilean cuisine prepared by the talented Chef derived from original family recipes alone is enough to beckon you to Las Torres‘ welcoming doors!  We hope you’ll tune in, because that’s all I’m going to share with you for now.  Some things in life are truly worth the wait!

THIS IS AUTHENTIC PATAGONIA: RELIVE THE TRUE SPIRIT OF ESTANCIA LIVING AT HOTEL LAS TORRES PATAGONIA!

toma-general-hotel-las-torres-patagonia-1.JPG.1920x807_0_134_10000Hotel Las Torres guests find its privileged location especially convenient because many of the different trails to the most renowned places of the park start just a short walk from their rooms, like the trail to the base of the iconic towers. And, after a full day of strenuous hiking, Hotel Las Torres is indeed a welcome sight!

www.lastorres.com

Torres del Paine National Park,
Magallanes and Antartica Chilena Region, Chile
+56 61 2617450

PS: STAY TUNED:  As ESCAPESEEKER continues our South American Odyssey. Our next stop:  PUNTA ARENAS…Wait until you meet the amazing, brilliant, young Chileans behind this brand new, charming BOUTIQUE HOTEL at the most southern tip of Chile– LA YEGUA LOCA…with an artistically curated, uniquely created one-of-a-kind furnishings, remnants from their ancestors’ lives, and beautifully transformed into a LIVING HOMAGE TO THEIR LASTING LEGACY! 11081310_345987045609677_7189951443939767339_nHILLTOP VIEW OF PUNTA ARENAS FROM LA YEGUA LOCA

AFFORDS GUESTS THE MOST STUNNING SUNSETS AS IT COLORS THE SEA.

Here’s to BLISSFUL, ENDLESS ESCAPES…

Until then, remember, no matter where you go, be the kindest person you know.

With love,

Mel aka The ESCAPESEEKER

IMG_6547*The park is one of the 11 protected areas of the Magallanes Region and Chilean Antarctica. Together with four national parks, three national reserves, and three national monuments, the protected forested areas comprise about 51% of the land of the region (6,728,744 hectares).

A MASTERFUL WORK OF ART PROUDLY RESTS UPON A REMOTE PATAGONIAN TOWN

Wednesday, April 15th, 2015

 by Mel Gee Henderson with select images captured by Miristi Gee DSC_0358

MasterfulArt: Remota HotelModern Art In Harmony With Patagonia’s Wild Horizon

 

Puerto Natales, Chile ~ It is dusk and we arrive at Remota hotel just as the sun is bidding the day adieu.  One can’t help but gaze at the way the hundreds of windows reflect the events taking place outside its walls. And, what are those events?  It’s Mother Nature’s own works of art on display day after day in this, the most remote and only outpost town of significant size in Chilean Patagonia, Puerto Natales.

AN ARCHITECT’S MISSION:  RESIDING IN HARMONY WITH NATURE

Architect Germán Del Sol, who is also a professor at the Universidad de Chile, wanted to conceal the luxury that awaits the traveler, “to lower the expectations, so its interior will appear unexpectedly in all its splendor.” It’s all about the element of surprise—including the fact that even with its innovative design and lavish comforts, the hotel was built with a conscious effort to care for nature, striving to use minimal energy.  Congratulations Mr. Del Sol. Mission accomplished. The minute one walks into Remota Hotel, you feel as though you’ve walked into an expansive living, breathing Museum of Modern Art. If it hadn’t been for the instant welcoming staff eager to make us feel right at home, I would have immediately begun exploring every corner of this innovative hotel on my own!

Golden Hue Remota Hotel exudes a warm golden hue exceeded only by the genuine warmth of its caring staff.

 

Recognizing my childlike curiosity, Marisa Pugliese, who serves as the General Manager’s international guests liaison–in great part due to her command of the English language–invited me to tour the hotel early the next morning, vividly explaining the philosophy behind each area of this masterful work of art.

No stone turned...Marisa pointed out that the empty central courtyard or plaza, introduces the vast wilderness of Patagonia at the core of the hotel.

It is surrounded in three sides by two guest rooms buildings, and the main one in the back a little higher, where the common areas of the hotel are placed.

“The plaza is empty, except for a few big boulders, but is full of suggestions- like the clear cut that one makes to see the forest. It lets one see what one wishes, whether it is the natural environment, or the strong culture that has allowed men, women and children to enjoy  life–the unique life found only in Patagonia.  The main plaza is an invitation to leave the warm environment of the hotel, and go wandering into the wild, unworried whether the day is windy or cold, keeping in mind that all the comforts of home await you at Remota when you return,” Marisa adds.

 MiristiGeeImageryThe ever-changing Patagonia light enters the building through the sequence of vertical cuts of the window panes granting guests the feeling of open space.

A LABOR OF LOVE…GIFTS FOUND IN NATURE

The strong and spartan geometric furniture was made by carpenters at the job site out of big pieces of dead native wood recovered from the big forests of Lenga trees that still thrive close to the sea in the Patagonian low lands.

In all the furnishings, the handwork expressed by the craftsmen is clearly evident, the fruit of their labors document the year-long challenge of ultimately bringing the hotel to life.

IMG_0254Remota affords so many options for guests to find their own favorite space to gather with family and friends or just merely close your eyes to ponder and reflect upon the beauty of life.  It’s easy to do when every day you’re given an opportunity to get up close to the world’s most iconic natural wonders, many of which some people can merely dream of visiting.

Let nature's light shine throughA Chilean poet describes, “What is important is not the light that one turns on every night, but the light that one once turned off allows the memory of light….”
A place to rest...After a day of exploring Puerto Natales and its nearby sites, it’s a welcome reprieve to be able to sink into our luscious beds!

NO MATTER HOW GRAND THE HOTEL, IT’S THE PEOPLE WHO ULTIMATELY MAKE IT STAND OUT ABOVE THE REST

Enter Marisa Pugliese, a beautiful Latina who embodies all the extraordinary qualities we associate with being Latina, especially after we learned of her family’s famed Argentine Tango roots.  She gave up dancing the Tango long ago, but she puts the same focus and passion the dance requires towards her hospitality duties as she serves as the liaison for all international visitors.  No matter what arises, Marisa is all about “Mission Possible”…and when you’re visiting a place as remote as Patagonia, you want someone at the helm with a total “can do” attitude!

Understanding that my ESCAPESEEKER team is on a quest to find the compelling stories to build a new episode featuring Puerto Natales, Marisa quickly introduced us to native Chilean guide, Javier Lazo.  My photographer, Miristi’s first reaction, “Ok, she knows how to be a “casting agent” too.”  Our guide definitely has a camera-friendly face! Now, the big test–will he have the encyclopedic knowledge of the area that our PBS program standard requires? Well, we were about to find out:

ANCIENT CAVES, CONDOR CLIFFS, and ETHNOBOTANY

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We arose early to enjoy Remota’s bounteous breakfast to ensure we were properly fueled for our full day’s exploration with our expert guide, Javier Lazo.  Our first stop, Cueva del Milodón Natural Monument located  24 km (15 mi) northwest of Puerto Natales.

The monument is situated along the flanks of Cerro Benitez, and comprised of several caves and a rock formation called Silla del Diablo (Devil’s Chair). The monument also includes the largest 200 meter long cave discovered in 1895 by German explorer, Hermann Eberhard who found a large, seemingly fresh piece of skin of an unidentified animal. In 1896 the cave was again explored by Otto Nordenskjold who later recognized that the skin belonged to Mylodon, a giant ground sloth animal which became extinct at the end of the Pleistocene Epoch,the geological epoch which lasted from about 2,588,000 to 11,700 years ago, spanning the world’s most recent glacial era.

MilodonDarwiniAfter our mind-expanding geological history lesson, Javier led us further up the Cerro Benitez, continually teaching us about the flora and fauna.

10258344_10153704860798032_4915237461637036254_oThe higher we hiked, the more dramatically beautiful the vistas. I have an acronym for times like these, TYGM or “Thank You God” Moments!

Cerro Benitez8381-two-condors-soaring-below

I noticed we were not the only ones enjoying the view above Lago Sofia as we witnessed Andean Condors soaring below the cliff top where we stood.

Exploring on foot guided by an enthusiastic native guide is the fastest way to help modern travelers, especially those of us coming from big cities to relate with the natural environment and enjoy an enriching, mind-expanding, breathtaking experience.

Thank you Javier for fueling our curiosity and helping restore our childlike wonder.

Our dedicated Remota driver was waiting for us near Lago Sofia’s shoreline ready to take us back to Remota, just a short drive awaywhere we had no doubt another of Chef René Espinoza’s delightful dinner offerings were being skillfully prepared. What’s our first hint? Well, for one, the incredible aroma of hot Chilean bread baking in the kitchen is enough to make one want to steal a few loaves!

OUR THIRST FOR KNOWLEDGE IS ONLY MATCHED BY OUR HUNGER FOR CHEF ESPINOZA’S CULINARY ARTISTRY

42-34986576As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words, so please permit me to allow this photo montage of the images captured by our own talented photographer, Miristi Gee to tell our delicious story of our nightly dining experiences. Chef Espinoza uses only the freshest ingredients–his baked crab casserole is out of this world–and, I’ve personally witnessed his bread makers and pastry chefs in action–they’ve gotta be the best bakers in Puerto Natales.

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PUERTO NATALES: A PORT TOWN BORN OF RUGGED, RESOURCEFUL,  IMMIGRANT PIONEERS WITH A WORK ETHIC THAT KNEW NO BOUNDS…

 LIFE IMITATING ARTMany Puerto Natales newly arrived adventure-seeking residents are drawn to the natural, inspiring beauty of this remote land.

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A LOOK BACK TO THE PAST…

punta-arenas-mapPuerto Natales is located in the province of  Última Esperanza (Last Hope), named by Juan Ladrilleros, the sailor who was seeking the Strait of Magellan in the year 1557. It was his “last hope” to find the Strait after exploring the maze of channels between the waters of the Pacific and the mainland. It was not until three centuries later, in 1830, that another major expedition sailed through the fjords and channels of Última Esperanza: the British expedition of the sloop HMS Beagle. Some of the expedition members, Robert FitzRoy, William Skyring and James Kirke as well as their senior officers are remembered by several place-names in the Puerto Natales area. Commander Fitzroy was the captain during the Second voyage of HMS Beagle (1831–1836).

In 1870, interest in the Ultima Esperanza region was rekindled. Among the daring travelers who ventured to these desolate lands was Santiago Zamora, also known as ‘Baqueano’ Zamora. He discovered the lakes of the Torres del Paine area. Another was the English traveler and writer Lady Florence Dixie, commemorated in the city’s present-day Hotel Lady Florence Dixie. Dixie authored the book Across Patagonia, where she describes the first tourist expedition to Torres del Paine and the Three Horns (the three granite spires) which she named as Cleopatra’s Needles.

Puerto Natales was founded on May 1911 as a port for the sheep industry. During the last half of the 20th century the sheep industry declined and many people from Puerto Natales started to work in the coal mines of Río Turbio in Argentina. During the peak of the sheep industry in Patagonia, two large “frigorificos” or cold-storage plants were constructed in the Natales area, of which one still stands.

TODAY and TOMORROW…

Puerto Natales has many tourist facilities to meet every budget,  including sporting goods stores carrying popular global brands, i.e. Solomon for the serious outdoor enthusiasts.   It has become a common base for excursions to the world-famous Torres del Paine National Park, one of the most visited national parks in Chile, in great part due to its  impressive, towering rock formations.  Named a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, the park is home to hundreds of different birds and many mammal species, as well as the third largest ice field on the planetThe national park is open all year round, but the best season to visit the park is from October to April, the southern hemisphere’s spring and summer season, the latter of which has more than 16 hours of daylight–a mountaineer’s delight!

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Stay tuned for our next report…when we discover what it’s like to reside at a true Chilean “Estancia” located within the shadow of the Torres del Paine!

Until then, here’s to #Blissful, #Endless #Escapes…

With love,

Mel Gee Henderson aka The ESCAPESEEKER

DSC_0105How we got there: via LAN Airlines:   www.lanairlines.com MIA/SCL/PUQ

Upon arrival in Punta Arenas, we were picked up by TURISMO BOULDER

Contact: Gonzalo Ginouves @ +56 9 79572915 or turismoboulder@gmail.com

REMOTA

www.remotahotel.com

Ruta 9 Norte, km 1.5

Puerto Natales, Chile

info@remota.net

+56 2 23871500

Architect: German del Sol
Location: Provincia de Última Esperanza, Magallanes, Patagonia,
Project team: José Luis Ibañez G. / Architect, Francisca Schüler M. / Architect, Carlos Venegas / Architect, Rodrigo Arenas P. / Graphics Arts
Contractor: Salfa, Punta Arenas
Constructed Area: 5,213.46 sqm
Project year: 2004 – 2005
Construction year: 2004 – 2005
Additional
Photographs by Guy Wenborne, Felipe Camus.